Dinner at I Caffi

We travelled to Italy to celebrate our 10th anniversary. As our plans progressed and I realized that we would be in Acqui Terme for the actual day I asked Diana if she had a good recommendations for a 'splurge' dinner to celebrate. She immediately suggested I Caffi.

I Caffi used to be located in the Langhe area of Piemonte (in the town of Caffi) but recently moved into the city of Acqui Terme itself. It is now located in a completely renovated 15th century building just a short walk from the Cathedral, comprising of two dining rooms, one on the upper floor with a coffered ceiling and elegant and refined furnishings, known as the Sala Padronale, and one on the ground floor, in a more relaxed, country-style setting, known as the  Sala delle Mura, where lunch only is served. The formal dining room is small - only seating about 35 guests; if you don't have reservations . . . forget about it!

Diana made our reservations for us, confirmed them, and even drew us a very detailed map so that we would have no trouble finding the restaurant. We arrived at the appropriate time and were ushered to our seats. The dining room was beautifully decorated with a creative touch and great attention to detail.

Each place setting was colour coordinated with the charger and bread 'plate' being made from coloured glass. The water glass picked up the same colour. Each setting at the table was a different colour - mine red, Paul's golden.

The menu was in Italian with NO English 'subtitles' - which, as all good travellers know can be a very good sign. Our waiter spoke no English either. You had the choice of ordering a la carte or ordering a variety of tasting menus. We both ordered the Piemonte tasting menu which was paired with regional wines.

Not long after we had ordered a server brought over a glass container filled with homemade grissini, still warm from the oven, and a large basket of bread. He arranged three small rolls on our bread plate. Each tiny roll was different, unique, and carefully prepared. I was in trouble immediately . . . with rolls this good I was likely to fill up on them!

Heaven help you if you ate them all because then the bread basket reappeared and more were placed on your plate! Again, each unique and different.

For our first course we were brought a glass jar which contained a local piemonte potato salad. This was a a pleasant combination of potatoes, fresh mayonnaise, onions, herbs and spices. This was NOT your grandmother's potato salad eaten at the summer BBQ!

To accompany this course we were brought a fluted glass which was filled with a local sparkling white wine. We were shocked when it was refilled . . . when we have eaten outher tasting menus we received one glass to go with the course, when it was done, it was done. I would have to be careful or we would be walking back to the B and B.

Not long after our plates had been whisked away we were brought the next course. This deconstructed dish contained a mound of raw chopped veal covered with shaved parmagiano, a glass with a small amount of freshly squeezed lemon juice, a formed mound of fresh soft cheese, and three tiny piles of different sea salts. Our served demonstrated how to pour the lemon juice over the meat and then eat this wonderful dish which was like a version of steak tartar - but far better than anything we had ever tasted.

All the while our champagne flute was replenished with a neverending supply of wine . . . oh oh.

The next course consisted of the freshest poached egg I have ever had (until I enjoyed one of Diana's breakfasts the next day) - so fresh that the yolk was orange! This egg was served over a bed of chopped spinach, covered with a flavourful white sauce, and then sliced white truffles were layered on top. My lord - to eat like this every day!

After the server removed the plate another servre removed the champagne flute and replaced it with a wine glass. We were then given a bottle of wonderful red wine for the table to sip with our next courses.

Soon we were presented with a plate containing the pasta course. It was a small mound of freshly made tagliatelle with a wondeful white ragu. We had enjoyed a white ragu the evening before on Torino but this was far superior. The meat was a combination of pork and veal, the sauce carefully prepared with perfect seasonings.

Between this course and our 'main' course we were given some time to enjoy the momment (and the wine!).

We were presented with a plate containing two pieces of roasted rabbit and some steamed beans and fennel. The rabbit was perfectly prepared and served with a delicate sauce.  To be honest though, I was most impressed with the vegetables. It has been our experience that most of the restaurants we have been to in Italy tend to cook their veggies far more than we are used to . . not I Caffi - these were perfectly done.

By now we were rather full (understatment of the year). The service had been attentive and we had been carefully paced through our courses, however it was still a lot of food even though the portions had not been huge.

Our table was cleared of everything except for the Siamese fighting fish who had been swimming lazily in his bowl while we had eaten our way though our tasting menu. We were brought a sweet dessert wine.  We wondered what the finale would bring? We should have known the best would be saved for last!

We were soon presented with a glass pedestal dish filled with sweets - tiny wedges of paneforte, chocolates, cookies, candied orange peel, chocolate covered fruit, and small fruit gellies.  This alone would have been more than enough for dessert. We noticed that the other dinners were waiting so we admired the view (although this was a challenge, let me assure you!) and waited with them.

Soon a server brought a plate that was beautifully decorated with melted chocolate. A bit of chocolate trivia for you - it was the people of Piemonte who perfected the art of chocolate making and then taught it to the Swiss and the rest of the world. It is fitting that we would end with chocolate.

On the plate was a small chocolate cake, still warm from the oven. Beside it was a chocolate cup containing a scoop of gelato. It looked like vanilla but upon further investigation we realized that it was lavendar gelato. WOW

It was 11:15 when we rolled ourselves out to the street to wander back to our car. Acqui Terme is beautifully lit at night and it was a lovely stroll through the quite pedestrian only area. As we made our way back to the B and B all we could speak about was the stellar dining experience we had had. Diana had been spot on with this recommendation (as she was with ALL of her recommendations).

Not only was this one of the best meals we had eaten at a restaurant in Italy it was one of the best meals EVER. The food was carefully and creatively prepared. The service impeccable. The wines well-matched to the foods. I could go on, and on but I am loath to do so . . . I'd like to keep this spot just for me (I am selfish!).

The price?

130 euro for both of us.

A meal of this calibre in Chicago, New York, or Toronto would easily have been between $ 300 or $ 400! Add an incredible value to the list of superlatives above.

So, if you love food, are in Aqcui Terme, and wish to celebrate a bit - run, don't walk to I Caffi (having made a reservation well in advance of course) and enjoy a stunning dining experience.

Comments

[nancyhol]

OMG, Jerry, I am drooling just reading about your dinner!

And such a bargain too!

There is no question about it - I MUST go to I Caffi - and soon!

[diana]

Jerry, I just sent a link for your blog to Paolo and Bruna at I Caffi. They are going to be so pleased.

[Barbara]

Oh Jerry! Thanks so much for taking the time to snap the pictures...how did you ever manage to put down your fork? This truly sounds like a wonderful way to celebrate a special occasion!

[Barb Cabot]

What an amazing dining experience with such attention to every detail. Truly a grand way to celebrate your anniversary!
Thanks for the photos and descriptions.

[sandrac]

What fantastic presentations! I love the potato salad served in a small sealer jar. Every course looks amazing. Lovely portions, not too large. The idea of lavendar gelato is mind-boggling, as is the low price (for such a fabulous meal)

Thanks for taking photos throughout. Did you really have your own little fish on the table to keep you company? After a couple of glass of wine, I might have inadvertently eaten the poor little guy....

[Wendy and Rob]

Jerry, I've been reading each of your entries and now I just, must, comment.

Happy Anniversary, a tad late. Your dinner not only sounds over-the-top wonderful, but a perfect evening for the two of you.

If ever we are in that area -and I am sure we will be- I Caffi is at the top of our list.

Thank you for sharing your evening with all of us.

[Jerry]

Nancy - if you're in Acqui Terme to make a reservation and go hungry!

Thanks Diana - perhaps you can translate for them! LOL

Barb and Barbara - it was the perfect anniversary dinner - far better than we could have managed at home.

Sandra - I have a recipe for lavendar ice cream but Mexican hot chocolate (with chili powder and brandy) won out today.

Each table had a fish swimming lazily in a glass bowl. It was far more interesting that the usual arrangements of flowers. Happily there was more than enough good food to eat so I didn't have to resort to the wee fishie.

Thanks Wendy.

[Robert]

Not often a blog about food brings a tear to the eye, but this one did.

The photos are amazing and your description of the meal- well, it sounds like heaven on earth. Totally appropriate to the event being celebrated too I think.

I am glad that you and Paul had a good time in Italy as well, even with the bad weather you experienced.

[Jerry]

Thanks Robert. We don't let weather get us down or stop us on vacation. It might change things a wee bit but that is all a part of the adventure we think!

[Cindy Ruth]

Jerry-What a great post. The evening sounds absolutely amazing. The food, the presentation, etc. I can't believe it was so reasonably priced. Last tasting menu I did was at Ristorante B&B in Las Vegas (Mario Batalli's), and 7 course pasta and wine was $400 before tax and tip!

[Jerry]

Thanks Cindy Ruth. I'm loath to talk about what a great bargain dinner was for fear the price goes through the roof! LOL This was true for all of the places we ate in Piemonte though - even Torino. Sadly the same could not always be said for Tuscany.