We set out this morning with the best of intentions. Honest we did.
I should have known that our quest to see the acropolis was doomed to failure. The one common piece of advice for touring in Athens is to get to the Acropolis early. It gets crowded and hot the closer you get to noon.
We headed out at 11 (it opened at 8 am). Oops
I didn't have the heart to wake Paul in his slightly feverish state so he slept in while I blogged away on the terrace.
Of course, once we set out I got sidetracked by the juggler who stands in the middle of the intersection by the apartment and juggles for money. What a concept - far better than the guys I see in the city who just hold up a badly spelled sign and expect me to pass over cash. I would be happy to give juggler guy some cash - he was entertaining!
We got to the acropolis on the subway without any major challenges (well except for the fact that it was the fullest subway I've ever been on - I had no trouble shoving my way on but I thought I'd lose 'Mr. Timid' Paolo).
Again, I was fascinated by the displays of historical artifacts in the subway.
More delays. . . .
Anyway.
We got about half way up the steep hill and noticed a HUGE line up of cruise ship hordes and school groups (apparently this is a popular destination for Dutch and German high school students - lucky them).
It was hot.
Paolo was sweating.
I asked if he'd rather go and see the museum now. . . . perhaps we could visit the acropolis later in the afternoon.
He jumped at the offer!
The museum was originally planned to be completed in 2004 to accompany the return of the Olympic Games to their spiritual home. Of course the inevitable construction setbacks and various outbreaks of controversy along the way (I gather that this is the 'Greek' way, although it sounds a lot like the Italian way too . . . ) meant that it did not finally open until this past June.
The long-awaited €130m Acropolis Museum is a modern glass and concrete tour de force at the foot of the ancient hill. It is the new home to sculptures from the golden age of Athenian democracy. Unlike any other museum in the world this one has been designed to exhibit something it doesn’t own - the marble frieze that was carved off of the parthenon by Lord Elgin in the early 1800s and now on display in the British Museum in London.
The Greek Culture minister has said that he hopes that the new museum will be the catalyst for the return of the disputed marbles from England. The gloves are now off and the battle is now on between this, the new state-of-the-art Acropolis Museum, and the British Museum for the right to permanently exhibit them.
Outside the museum and also within the cavernous entrance hall there are glass floors with views of the archaeological finds that were discovered during the construction of the building. Of course we took the ever-popular slowtravel foot shot standing over the ruins.
Once inside we paid our 1 euro admission (it is supposed to rise to 5 euro in 2010) and hung out in the lobby while overheated Paul cooled down. There was an interesting film that showed the museum being constructed - the effort taken to move the 2500 year old sculptures from the top of the acropolis down to the new museum down below was incredible.
Once he had recovered, Paul and I headed up into the museum. There is a steady incline through seven centuries of history and an impressive series of displays along a wide gallery that provides sufficient space for everyone to stop and enjoy the exhibits without feeling hurried or under pressure to move on.
On the second floor archaic and early classical statues are scattered across a big gallery like a crowd in an agora. The specific display selection caused some curatorial dispute apparently, as some were concerned that the visitors might miss many important statues, such as the “calf bearer” and other landmarks of archaic and classical sculptures because of the manne rin which they were displayed.
However, while wandering around one cannot help noticing the interaction between the public and the statues. The three-dimensional exhibits that can be seen from all sides create a sense of an ongoing dialog between the people mingling with the statues like in a promenade; visitors are pausing, admiring, and walking back and forth while following no specific predetermined museum course. It worked for us.
A bit further down, the five Caryatids, the exquisite sculpted female figures from the Erechtheion’s temple porch, seem a bit incomplete without the sixth member of their “family”. The empty statue base is a reminder of the sixth Caryatid, displayed at the British Museum in London. We were amazed at the impact that pollution had had on the sculptures before they were finally moved indoors. When, or if, the British ever return the sixth Caryatid it will stand out because it would have been protected from the Athenian pollution.
The highlight for us was the top floor Gallery, which is designed to eventually hold and display all of the Parthenon sculptures in a massive recreation of the temple. For the time being it has less than 50% of the originals on display, the rest are plaster casts of the remaining treasures 'temporarily' remaining in London. In fairness, it isn't just the Brits who have some of the treasure, often there were comments where the body of a god might be on display and the sign said: 'Hermes' head on display in the Louvre'. The point was made.
Nonetheless, it is truly impressive and with the acropolis hill and the Parthenon looming large outside I can only explain it rather inadequately as a wonderfully memorable experience. The top floor is designed to provide a full 360º panoramic of the building and how the sculptures would have looked when they were originally commissioned and sculptured in the fifth century BC.
Paul was wiped by the end of the museum touring so we decided pass on climbing up the acropolis. Instead the plan changed so we walked back to the apartment. Along the way we passed yet another bakery (honestly, they see to be everywhere) where we stopped for more cheese pies (I was daring this time and had one with spinach! MMMMM) which we ate sitting in the next grassy park we came across.
A quick stop in a grocery store for some breakfast provisions and we were back at the apartment. It wasn't long at all until Paul was asleep . . . until 6:30!
By then I was a tad stir crazy and wanted/needed to get out.
We went to another of the restaurants located on the square nearby the apartment - Oroscopo - which is an Italian restaurant. We thought that it would be interesting to see what Greek 'Italian' food would taste like. We were early so we thought we'd be safe sitting on the outdoor terrace (later it would be full of locals smoking).
We had an amazing meal there - Paul ordered a Greek salad and a ham and cheese crepe . . . me the popular Greek zucchini fritters and a slow roasted lamb shank. The food was delicious. Paul had panna cotta with cherries for dessert. The bill came to 53 euro - our most expensive meal in the city . . . so far, but worth it for the level of the cooking and attentive service.
We spoke a bit to the waiter and asked him how to say certain things in Greek. It is amazing how his face lit up when we demonstrated that we wanted to learn some Greek phrases. Really, there are few things that will make you more popular as a tourist than to try a bit to talk like a local . . .
Now on to bed . . . perhaps we might get all the way up the acropolis tomorrow . . .