Jerry's Thoughts, Musings, and Rants!

Torino Update

Back at the Internet cafe.

After updating the blog (and trying to convince the security guard at the door that my camera had come in with me and wasn't being lifted from the store) we headed to the Mole Antonelliana - Turin's answer to the CN Tower back home. Originally built as the city's synagogue it now houses the national cinema museum.

Our entrance was free with our Torino card. We decided to take the elevator to the top as the first order of business. The glass box was lifted from above through the cavernous interior up through a hole in the roof. Getting off of the elevator we were treated to a fantastic view of Torino and the alps in the distance.

Back down on the main level of the museum we enjoyed one of the most fascinating series of exhibits I have ever seen. Each genre of movie was there, each with its own theatre which served as a metaphor for the genre (i.e. an old style salon was playing a Western, a huge red velvet bed had a romance movie playing on the wall). In the centre of the main floor rows and rows of red velvet couches, each fitted with an individual speaker - sort of like a reclining drive in. We lay back and watched the movies to the point where we almost fell asleep!

This was a sign that it might be time to head back to the B and B for a nap! When we left the cinema museum there was a bit of irony awaiting us - they were shooting a real movie right on the street. There is no truth to the nasty rumour now circulating Turin that a couple of confused Canadians walked onto a movie set causing the director to shout, no truth at all.

I think that we're finally starting to get our bearings. We wandered back to the B and B (stopping for gelato en route of course!) without an difficulty. We crashed for a few hours and then decided to head out for dinner.

We ended up at a Venetian wine bar. Of course we had left the slowtravel menu translator at the room so we only recognized 1 or 2 things on the menu. We ordered and of course managed to muddle things up - all a part of the adventure. The chicchetti was fabulous - tiny anchovies, whole shrimps, and calamari with a number of other treats. For our mains Paul ordered polenta with some mystery fish on it, I had huge gamberi fritte. It is a bit disconcerting to have them show up on your plate with the eyes staring up at you but we managed to persevere.

We wandered around the Roman quarter a bit before heading back to the room for a well deserved sleep.

I think we were exhausted because we slept in until almost 9! We got reading in a flash because breakfast is only served until 10.

Today threatens to be cloudy so we decided it was another museum day. First though we had to visit the market. The Porta Palazzo market is Europe's largest outdoor market and was a complete feast for the senses.

After the market we popped into the Cathedral of San Lorenzo which was started by Guarini in 1666. The vaulted dome was an incredible feat of architecture at the time and was impressive even today.

Next up was the Palazzo Madama - a mixture of styles and construction that was 'slapped' together over 200 years. Restored and reopened in 2006 it now features the museum of Civic Arts. The exhibits trace decorative arts from the 1500s to the present age. All housed in a beautiful structure that was the former home of the Queen's mother - talk about ornate style her bedroom was as big as our house!

By the time we had had enough of the art we were famished. We managed to find a pizza shop which is supposed to have the best pizza in Turin (according to Eugenia Bell, anyway). It was bloody excellent. No need for a repeat of yesterday's 40 euro lunch - today was a quick slab of pizza and a drink eaten on a rock for 4 euro.

Time to head out before I run out of time and loose everything!

Hello from Torino

Hello from Torino.

I'm trying this again. At the Internet cafe you buy time. In between the European keyboard and my poor typing I ran out of  time and lost my initial post. ARGH

We arrived in Turin at 2 yesterday after uneventful flights. Grabbing a cab we were whisked into the city to our B and B which is located on the Piazza Savoia.

After traveling for hours we were exhausted but it wasn't anything a shower and shave wouldn't cure. Fortified, we went out to explore the city. It was great to pop into churches, view the Roman gates to the old city, and window shop. In the middle of our self-guided tour we reacquainted ourselves with the joys of real gelato! YUM

By 6 we were fading so we popped back to the B and B and napped for a couple of hours before dinner. We didn't do anything fancy for dinner - we wouldn't have appreciated it in our jet lagged state. There was a great pizza restaurant on the square which was full of local folks enjoying a night out. What a treat to sit on the square under the stars, surrounded by lush greenery, and happy Italians all talking (and gesturing) happily.

The pizza was bloody amazing as well! I had a calzone stuffed with fresh ricotta, provolone, and salami.  The other bonus? The house wine, better than any house wine back home, was 6 euro for a litre.

By 10 the jet lag was back and we crashed, sleeping soundly until 7:30.

Today is cloudy so we decided it was 'museum day'. This morning was the incredible Egyptian museum - the largest collection of Egyptian artifacts outside of Cairo. At the museum I was happy to see that Italian school groups behave the same as my students used to when I dragged them throughout museums! This afternoon we will visit the famous cinema museum.

We had lunch on the Piazza San Carlo at the Cafe Torino - the famous haunt of Cavour himself. We feasted on pasta, salad, and of course, more wine. I can see why Turin is famous for its food!

One last comment before I sign off (I am getting looks from a bored Paolo) - there has been an ongoing debate on the slowtravel message board about whether or not tourists needed to carry their passports around with them. I can say that I have had to show mine 4 times in the past 24 hours so I guess we can put that discussion to bed. LOL

Italians vs Europeans

By all rights we should be in Torino right now.

Capital of western Alps and Piedmont Region, Torino was founded 2,300 years ago by the Taurini Gauls, a celtic tribe, and was a Roman military camp called “Augusta Taurinorum” in the early Roman period. Taurus is latin for bull, and the bull, still today, is the symbol of the city.

In the Middle Ages the Savoys, Lords from the  French Region of the same name, began to extend their ambitions towards the most important territories in Piedmont. Since the 17th century and up to the mid 20th century, it has been the seat of the Savoy Dynasty. In the 19th century, Torino was the first capital of the Italian Kingdom after the unification.

Nowadays it is a modern industrial and commercial City, the seat of Fiat and many other industries as well as the home of the famous Martini, Cinzano and Carpano Vermouth. Torino also boasts artistic churches, buildings and well-known museums. The most important of these is the Egyptian Museum, the 2nd largest in the world after the one in Cairo. The large harmonious squares, the straight avenues lined with trees, the sober streets with arcades give the City an appereance of noble and charming elegance.

Beside being famous for their wide selection of typical regional food and wines like Barolo, Barbaresco and Dolcetto, Piedmont and Torino are well-known also for their hors-d’oeuvres and “pasticceria” (small pastries, friandises, chocolate). In the historical cafès once (Baratti & Milano, Al Bicerin, Torino, San Carlo, Pepino, Mulassano, Fiorio) visited by aristocracy, artists and poets, one can still enjoy some of the old recipes and live the athmosphere of the past centuries.

The City, which recently hosted the 2006 Olimpic Winter Games, is set to accept new important challenges: in 2008 Torino will be the first World Design Capital turning itself once again into a fundamental international destination.

It will be 2:35 when we arrive in the city. I know my body will be screaming from exhaustion. I am not sure how I will feel about blogging after being on planes through the night. I do hope to blog from the road but today isn't the day!

In preparation for this I decided to feature one of my favourite clips - Italians vs Europeans by the comedian Bruno Bozzetto - you learn a good deal about the Italian psyche by watching this. Yes, there is some exaggeration - but only some!

We're Off!

It is finally here - departure day! I'm not sure what will happen to the counter at the side once we have left but I can deal with that when I run into an internet cafe somewhere.

The airways transit shuttle service picks us up at 4:30. This seems ridiculously early for an 8:30 flight but who am I to quibble. I just want to get to the flipping airport! If we have two hours during which to lounge about the Air Canada lounge at least we will be comfortable!

I booked our flights on Orbitz back in February. The tickets cost about $ 1300 each including all taxes and surcharges at the time. The cost was less than when we flew to Rome last but more than what other flights were going for. However, it was an open jaw ticket with the times we wanted so I went for it. Sometimes you have to pay more to get the convenience that you want.

Arrival in Turin:

Air Canada 890

Depart:	8:25pm evening	Toronto, Canada Toronto Pearson International (YYZ)
Arrive:	11:00am morning	Rome, Italy Rome Intercontinental Airport Leonardo da Vinci (FCO)

Change planes. Time between flights: 2hr 20min

Alitalia 1417

Depart:	1:20pm afternoon	Rome, Italy Rome Intercontinental Airport Leonardo da Vinci (FCO)
Arrive:	2:35pm afternoon	Turin, Italy Turin Citta Di Torino (TRN)

Total duration: 12hr 10min | Total miles: 4743 miles.

We return from Florence on June first routed through Munich.

Incidentally - the same ticket on orbitz right now is now about $ 1900. OUCH

A few days ago I posted about packing lightly (not something I adhere to at all!). I defy anyone to fit all of this into a carry on:

You'll notice Victor sound asleep on a freshly dry cleaned shirt (one he later vomited on, ARGH). Heck - just my shoes alone would fill a carry on (running shoes, sandals, dress shoes, casual walking shoes). Add to that 2 pairs of jeans, cords, casual pants, dress pants, 2 shorts, bathing suits and on and on and you'll get the picture.

Just packing the empty wine carriers (soon to be full of lovely brunellos and barolos) took up half of the space in our luggage.

Everything has wheels so we will be fine. Of course, the only challenge will be fitting it all into the rental car. :-)

I am a bit out of sorts. I have about 9 hours to go and little to occupy my time. I am too organized and requires some sort of major panic attack before it feels like we're going away.

I will be blogging from the road whenever I can find an Internet cafe or if my iTouch can pick up on a wireless signal. I've put together a bunch of 'canned posts' to fill in the spaces when I can't find a connection. I don't have a clue how to manage photos though - i have brought just about every cable I own so hopefully something will work.

See you soon!

Packing

Six days to go. I need to think about packing . . .

Palma has already packed her bags and weighed them to see if they will be accepted on a plane without penalty.

Me? I am making lists . . .

One of the great on going debates  discussion on the slowtravel community message board generally revolves around packing. There are those who swear by their ability to pack enough clothing for an entire three week European adventure in a carry on bag. We are not in that camp. No, not evening close.

I see nothing to be gained by rinsing out my jockey shorts each evening with shampoo and hanging them to dry in the window.

Someone posted this a few weeks back:

We just returned from one week in Paris, and it (a BACKPACK) performed very well. I was able to pack a pair of jeans, a pair of chinos, two polos, two long sleeve button down shirts, one sweater, one pair of shoes, six pairs of socks, six pairs of boxers, one heavy jacket, three under shirts, one long sleeve tee, one short sleeve, tee, a pair of mesh shorts, two books, four magazines, shaving kit, notebook, maps, and other smaller items. It was comfortable to carry through airports, the Paris metro, and while walking down the street. If you regularly can use a 22" roller for one week trips, then you can use this too. It was perfect.

Nothing about this, other than a week in Paris, sounds perfect to me. Hell, I need a backpack just for my camera, iPod, video camera, cell phone, assorted chargers, international plug, etc.

Frankly I do NOT pack lightly at all. Why, you ask?

1. Read the jockeys in the bathroom sink drying in the window for  # 1.
2. I don't care to wear the same outfit five days in a row. I suppose no one would know. The problem is I would and I wouldn't be able to live with ME!
3. Yes, I know that the people I see don't know me and I will likely never run into them again. However, I just do NOT like the thought of wandering about with my clothing looking like Phyllis Diller's ankles because I have rolled it up in a tube to fit it all in a carry-on.
4. I am addicted to guidebooks. Guidebooks take up room in the suitcase. Hell, just printing out hotel reservations, plane reservations, directions to the villa, car rental agreements, etc has filled a file folder.
5. I am not a nudist (and the world gives thanks for that). I like clothing.
6. Apparently I have shoe issues. I bring different pairs with me. I bring walking shoes, sandals, running shoes, dress shoes. Sometimes I bring river shoes or hiking boots. Have you ever tried to put a pair of hiking boots in a backpack?
7. Some folk enjoy wearing nothing but black for weeks on end. I am neither a monk nor a goth. I enjoy some colour in my life. Having a clothing palette involves a variety of colours. This takes luggage room to mix and match appropriately.
8. I like to bring wine home with me. Thanks to those pinheads who tried to down an airliner with the contents of a coke can I can no longer bring my wine home as carry-on. Now I have a wine suitcase, carefully fitted with styrofoam, to safely bring that liquid gold home with me.
9. I have been known to purchase a thing or two. Actually I have been known to purchase so many things that I was forced to mail boxes of dirty clothing home in order to make room for my purchases in my suitcase. I could fill a carry-on in 5 seconds in Florence.

So you see, I just don't get it. To those who like to pack lightly, I say - good for you. I shall have my two bags, changes of clothing, clean jockey shorts, shoes, wine, and purchases.

This You-tube has some helpful advice for those of you who wish to pack lightly. At first I thought it was helpful, having watched it a few times I now think it is mocking light packers. I like it more now. :-)

The City of Fallen Angels

The City of Falling Angels opens on the evening of January 29, 1996, when a dramatic fire destroys the historic Fenice opera house. The loss of the Fenice, where five of Verdi's operas premiered, is a catastrophe for Venetians. Arriving in Venice three days after the fire, John Berendt - famous for his book Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil - becomes a kind of detective-inquiring into the nature of life in this remarkable museum-city-while gradually revealing the truth about the fire.

In the course of his investigations, Berendt introduces us to a rich cast of characters: a prominent Venetian poet whose shocking "suicide" prompts his skeptical friends to pursue a murder suspect on their own; the first family of American expatriates that loses possession of the family palace after four generations of ownership; an organization of high-society, partygoing Americans who raise money to preserve the art and architecture of Venice, while quarreling in public among themselves, questioning one another's motives and drawing startled Venetians into the fray; a contemporary Venetian surrealist painter and outrageous provocateur; the master glassblower of Venice; and numerous others-stool pigeons, scapegoats, hustlers, sleepwalkers, believers in Martians, the Plant Man, the Rat Man, and Henry James.

by far the most important character int he book is the city herself. Venice, a city steeped in a thousand years of history, art and architecture, teeters in precarious balance between endurance and decay. Its architectural treasures crumble — foundations shift, marble ornaments fall — even as efforts to preserve them are underway. Venice is a city of masks and riddles, where narrow streets and passageways form a giant maze that confounds the uninitiated and deepens the sense of mystery

A few facts from this book about Venice that you may or may not know:

Venice has the cleanest air of any city because there are no cars and methane gas which burns cleanly is used for heating.

It is also the quietest city with a sound level of 32 decibels, while for the average city it is 45 decibels, again because of the absence of traffic.

There are 443 bridges in the city of Venice, although I have seen other figures bandied about, including 500.

During his occupation of Venice, Napoleon razed to the ground 176 religious buildings, 80 palaces along with their decorations and art treasures and his agents confiscated 12,000 paintings and sent them Paris where they now reside in the Louvre.

The Venetian Mafia control the water taxi business in Venice, along with the money lending operation in front of the Municipal Casino, which incidentally residents of Venice are not allowed to enter due to a very old statute still on the books.

The permanent population of Venice has now shrunk to 70,000 although an estimated 7 million tourists visit the city each year.

Well why don't you read the book for yourself? I do recommend it highly although the tone might be considered a trifle gossipy, however I found it fascinating.

You may also be interested in the list of the ten books that John Berendt thinks are essential reading on Venice and I found this fascinating site which has a fairly exhaustive list of books on Venice, both fiction and non fiction.

I found this book to be a witty and urbane tour through the private (as opposed to the tourist) Venice. It also had a godssipy tone. Along with Berendt we encounter an extraordinary roster of Venetians and expatriates--the people who actually live in Venice. And what a collection of eccentrics and oddballs! I was hooked from the very beginning in which Berendt describes the spectacular fire that destroyed the Fenice opera house, as seen through the eyes of the people who were on the scene, including the 87-year-old master glassbower of Venice, who watched from his bedroom window a mere 30 feet away from the blaze and then went to his glassmaking factory and started work on a series of bowls and vases representing the awful fire.  Couldn't put it down. Didn't want it to end. I'm sure that this has nothing to do with the fact that I love Venice!

Torino

The counter to the left indicates that it is three weeks until our trip to Italy. I've had a few folks ask 'why Torino?'

To be honest I don't really know. It started as a stay at the Baur B and B in Acqui Terme about which the most wonderful things are written. Once it was booked I started thinking about a day trip to Torino. The more I read, the more I was concerned that a day trip just wouldn't do it justice.

What to do?

Tack on three extra days at the START of the trip. Granted, a bustling city isn't the greatest spot to decompress after jet lag but we have never really done things by the rule book!

This little promo video put together in time for the 2006 Olympics gives you a taste of the city (do you recognize the Lord of the Rings imagery and music here?)

This one is static but contains some wonderful images. Yes, we want to see it ALL!

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One Month Today

Wow.

How to tell if a blogger is getting excited an upcoming event . . .

they install a counter on their blog counting down to the start of the event (as I type - 28 days and 12 minutes)  . . .

they drop mentions of said event in many posts . . . (I think that I started doing this some time last year)

they start posting about the event a month in advance.

What is this event? Our big vacation this year . . . AKA Italy 2008.

This will be us as we jet towards Italy and adventure, fun, food, and good times.

Now I should back up just a wee bit. I started planning this trip some time in January 2007 when I realized (or was reminded!!!!) that our 10th anniversary was coming up in May 2008. What better spot to celebrate than Italy?

Initially I was going to keep it as a surprise. Paul would know that there was a trip. The limo would pick him up after work and we'd head together to the airport where he would find out the destination.

Marcia suggested that this might not be fair to Paul. I realized that she was right and that my control issues might just be rising to the surface a wee bit as well. I also realized that part of the fun of traveling is being able to plan the trip with one another.

When we were in Savannah a few weeks ago people asked us what our plans were. Funnily enough, we didn't have anything definite. The flights are booked. Our accomodation are booked. I reserved (and paid for) the car. We've arranged for a ballooning trip over the hills of tuscany. Diana, the amazing owner of the B and B in Acqui Terme has reserved our anniversary dinner at a fine restaurant. Other that that - nothing.

Here's what we know at this point:

We will fly into Torino.

Where we will recover from jet lag before heading to Acqui Terme . . .

From here we head to the beautiful walled town to Lucca.

We visited Lucca back in 2006, loved it, and I had to return.

From here we head to Montisi  . . .

. . . which will be our base for exploring southern Tuscany.

Finally we head back to Florence

Before jetting back to Toronto.

Did I tell you that I am excited and can't wait?

My lord, you'll be sick of this all in 28 days!

Montisi Dreaming

This afternoon, as I raced out of the office to catch my train, one of my colleagues called me into her office to tell me about an event she was planning for May. 'Sounds interesting,' I said 'but I'll be out of the country!'

That is all it took. For the rest of my journey home I was Montisi dreaming . . .

In May we will be spending a week in Montisi as a part of Gail's Great Escapes. She has us booked into a luxurious villa in the town and has arranged for some wonderful experiences. When I heard about the trip it seemed to be the perfect way to celebrate our 10th anniversary - I figure that anyone who has tolerated me for 10 years deserves a week of luxury and fun in Tuscany!

Me? I just deserve a trip.

I had the pleasure of meeting Gail in Palm Desert this fall. Heck, I even shared a bathroom with her and her husband John. She is one of those truly amazing people with whom you could spend hours and not realize that time has gone by. She puts you at ease immediately and before you know it you are friends for life. Paul and I will be in such wonderful hands while in Tuscany.

 

Gail is the one on the left. Don't ask about the boas, don't ask.

Now Gail is more than a fabulous person. Yes, she is. She is a celebrity. Now she isn't like Britney or Paris. . . . I think she wears undergarments.

Seriously, last week she was featured in an article in the Atlanta Journal Constitution. It was an article about someone who really loves and excels at her job, entitled . . . drum roll please . . .

Why I Love My Job.

Lord, the wonderful use of metaphors and adjectives they teach in southern journalism schools these days is astounding!

Is it any wonder that I am Montisi dreaming these days?

Of course, the fact that we get to spend the week with the incredible trio of Sandi, Palma, and Brad just makes it even better. All I can say is that if we carry on half as much as we did in Palm Desert the trusting folk of Montisi just won't know what has hit them.

It gets better.

A few weeks back we received a package in the mail from Sandi. When I opened it up there was a cookbook she had written (more on my uber talented friend later) but I also pulled out a letter 'S' and an 'I'.

Paul looked on and wondered aloud  'why the hell would Sandi send you an 'IS'?'

The mystery was solved when I pulled out some more letters.

Now I think about Montisi as I lay in bed at night and again when I wake up in the morning.

Oh oh. If I get any more excited my friends and colleagues who shall remain here in Canada shall shun me.

Jamie Oliver's Wild Boar Sauce (sugo di cinghiale di mercatello)

When we were in San Gimignano in 2006 we enjoyed a late lunch at Dulcis in Fundo on Vicolo D’Innocenti. The food was outstanding – in fact, it was one of our best meals of the trip. Both Paul and I ordered Tagliatelle with a cinghiale ragu - it came studded with small pieces of carrot and juniper berries. We were hooked on boar!

Ever since then I have been trying to figure out how to recreate this dish.

The first step was taken when I received a cookbook for Christmas last year.

Jamie's Italy is Italian, from the first page to the very last. His enthusiastic introduction to this new book is imbued with his love for Italy and the Italians' love of good food using local and fresh, fresh ingredients. His only complaint is the Italians' unwillingness to try something new or not cooked in the way they and their families before them have cooked - he may complain, I would suggest that we have the great varieties of food in Italy BECAUSE of that!

On page 245 there is a recipe for a wild boar (cinghiale) ragu which looked like it might be like the one we had in San Gimignano.

Then when I was in New York last December I found an elusive ingredient in a gourmet food store located near Union Square - Juniper Berries.

The next step was to find the boar. I struggled here. Finally, when I was in Ottawa I stumbled upon some at Aubrey's in the Byward Market.

Aubrey's is the shop with the green awning. Four pounds of boar made it home with me in my luggage.

I was ready to go. I would follow a recipe by an English chef in an effort to recreate a meal I had in Italy using boar I brought home from Ottawa and juniper berries from New York City. It is true, traveling has expanded my horizons (and some would suggest, my waistline).

We decided that this would be a nice way to start off our Valentine's dinner and to get us in the mood for our upcoming trip to Italy (as if that was a problem)!

Sugo do Cinghiale di Mercatello

2 1/4 lb wild boar cubed, trimmed of fat and sinew
2 large carrots, peeled
2 onions, peeled
6 stalks of celery
a handful of sage leaves
1 tsp juniper berries
1 bottle white wine
4 pieces of pancetta
2 - 3 small dried chilies, to taste
1 1 1/2 lb jar passata (tomato puree)
olive oil
sea salt
freshly ground pepper

Put the meat into a large sealable bag. Roughly shop half of the carrots, onions, and celery. Add to the meat in the bag. Bash up the sage with the juniper berries (I used my Jamie Oliver Flavour Shaker although you could use a mortar and pestle) and toss with the meat and vegetables.Season with salt and pepper. Pour in half of the bottle of wine, topping up with water if necessary. Seal and place in a large bowl in the refrigerator overnight.

Remove the meat from the marinade, discarding the liquid and vegetables. Decide how you wish to serve your sauce and cut the meat accordingly (if you leave it in large cubes it will be like a stew. I minced the meat in a food processor to make a sauce for pasta).

Heat a splash of olive oil in a large pot over medium high heat. Fry the pancetta and chili until the pancetta is golden and crisp. Chop the remaining carrot, celery, and onion, add to the pan, and cook slowly for 10 to 15 minutes. Turn the heat to high and add the meat to the pan. Cook until nearly all of the liquid has cooked off - this takes some time but will intensify the flavours. Pour in the remaining wine. Stir together and continue cooking until; the liquid has nearly gone, then add the tomato sauce and a little water (if necessary). Season well with salt and pepper, turn the heat to low, simmer gently for 1 1/2 - 2 hours, adding more water if the sauce gets too thick.

Cook the pasta in boiling salted water, drain it, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Toss the pasta with the sauce, adding a little of the reserved cooking liquid. Divide it amongst the plates and sprinkle with Parmesan.

(note: I was lazy by this point and just spooned the sauce over the pasta. It would have been far closer in style to the dish we had had in Italy had I followed Oliver's instructions)

We both really enjoyed this version - it was more tomatoey (is that a word?) than what we had enjoyed in Italy, but good nonetheless. The best thing is that I have three containers of the sauce awaiting another special occasion in the freezer. Lucky us!