July 18, 2007

Maine Trip Eats

When I reflect upon our recent trip and think about the food (doesn't everyone do this? No? Perhaps I am a tab obsessed) there are four 'restaurants' (I used quotations for fear that a fellow foodie will flame me for calling a quintessential Maine Lobster Shack a restaurant!) which come to mind:

100_3103Dinosaur BBQ in Syracuse, NY

246 W. Willow Street
Syracuse, NY 13202
315-476-4937

You may wonder about BBQ. It isn't the normal high end food that appears on the pages of food magazines, however there is nothing like the taste of amazing BBQ! We Canadians love our BBQ and we just can't get good BBQ at home (unless we're cooking it in our backyards). We found the restaurant (thank you MapQuest), parked ($ 2) but there was a wait for a table. Even though it was after 8, we waited: the smells wafting out from the door were that good.

When we got in we enjoyed one of the best BBQ meals we had ever had. Inside the restaurant had a décor that screamed roadhouse, some of the clientele were ‘rough around the edge' but this is what we have come to expect from a BBQ joint.

We decided to try an order of fried green tomatoes something we had never had before. We split a sampler platter as an appetizer (fried green tomatoes, chicken wings, boiled shrimp, and deviled eggs).

There was a slight incident when Paul ordered his mug of beer  . . . the waitress thought he wanted a bucket! Mom and I were amused even if Paul wasn’t.

For our main course mom ordered ½ a rack of ribs, Paul a brisket sandwich, and I ordered the granddaddy sampler platter – a 1/3 rack of ribs, ¼ chicken, and brisket. Mom and I also got two sides and cornbread with our meals. Paul received fries, pickles, and cole slaw with his. We all loved our meals and shared with one another.

Dinner (appetizers, mains, 4 beers, and root beer for mom) was amazing and only $ 66 with drinks etc!

100_3105_2  100_3108

100_3109

100_3115 BGs Boathouse in Portsmouth, New Hampshire

191 Wentworth Road
Portsmouth, NH 03801
(603) 431-1074

BGs doesn’t look like much from the outside, nor does it look like much from the inside, yet the place was full of folk from the local area who clearly knew where to go for good seafood. We sat out on the deck overlooking the water and watched boaters pull up in their boats, tie them up, and come up to the restaurant for dinner and drinks.

Our waitress brought us some drinks and we ordered. As soon as she left mom was convinced that she had ordered the wrong thing and wanted to change her order (the sight of the guy next to us having the seafood platter delivered to his table convinced her that the baked haddock wasn’t what she really wanted! LOL). Alas, it was too late for her to change.

The appetizers came quickly, buffalo chicken tenders which were crisply fried with a light breading and a zesty buffalo sauce and crab cakes. We devoured them. I don’t know where this appetite came from because all we had done all day was sit in a car, eaten, and shopped. It must have been the sea air.

Our main courses arrived shortly after – baked haddock stuffed with crab and zucchini for mom and Paul and a lobster roll for me (I thought for my first lobster of the trip I wanted someone else to break it out of the shell). It was amazing! Normally lobster rolls are made with leftover bits of lobster but this one had the equivalent of ½ a pound of lobster meat – including my favourite claw meat! It was lightly mixed with mayo, some lemon juice and I think tarragon. YUM

After dinner we were far too full for dessert. We paid the bill ($ 96 for 4 beers, 2 appetizers, and three mains). More expensive than last night but still below $ 35 a person – you can’t get food this good at home!

100_3112 100_3113

100_3114

100_3209The Whale's Rib in Deer Isle Village, Maine

20 Main Street,
Deer Isle,
Maine 04627
1 888-778-7505
207-348-6615

We had made reservations at the Whale’s Rib for 7 pm so we changed and headed out. The restaurant is located in an old Inn which was originally built in 1793 and has been an Inn since 1899. We had been warned that you can wait for a table even if you have reservations; I take this to be a good sign because in my mind it means people don’t want to leave!

We were seated in the dining room which is rustic and has about 15 tables. It was everything you would expect from a dining room in a 200 year-old inn to be. Most of the menu items were seafood but there were some non-seafood appetizers and entrees to please the 'landlubber.

Mom and Paul ordered the Maine Peekytoe Crab Cakes and I ordered the Calamari. Each was perfectly cooked; I believe calamari is a good judge of a kitchen’s skill: unskilled chefs will turn out calamari which is like eating a large rubber band; this calamari was perfect with the squid tender and the batter crispy.

For our main courses Mom ordered a grilled tuna special which was served over tender spears of asparagus and a Tuscan bean salad. The Tuna was marinated in flavours similar to those in the salad so the tastes were perfectly paired. I ordered the seafood casserole which arrived as a large dish full of scallops, lobster, crab, and haddock in a zesty cream sauce, covered with buttered bread crumbs and broiled until brown. YUM Paul ordered broiled haddock which was perfectly cooked and served on a medley of vegetables and rice.

I didn’t eat all of my dinner because I knew I wanted some dessert; it was to be our birthday dinner courtesy of mom. Paul ordered a chocolate peanut butter pie and it was so good that he practically inhaled it before I could snap a picture of it for the blog. Mom and I ordered a strawberry rhubarb crisp which was delicious.

I can see why this restaurant does so well. The food is incredible; while the service isn’t what you would expect to find in high-end restaurant in the city it was friendly and warm. On of the best things was the price – dinner for three (appetizers, mains, dessert, sparkling water, a bottle of wine, and coffee) was only $ 133!!!!!! Before we left we were already making plans to return!

100_3195 100_3196

100_3197 100_3198

100_3200 100_3205

100_3445Bagaduce Lunch in Brooksville, Maine

19 Bridge Road
Brooksville, ME
04617
207.326.4729

This classic lunch counter had been written up in one of the guide books as ‘absolutely the best spot fro seafood baskets and burgers’. Who were we to ignore this recommendation? Of course, the fact that they have been serving up seafood delights since 1946 was convincing evidence as well.

There were tables scattered over the lawn overlooking the reversing falls and the Bagaduce River. Mom secured a table in the shade while Paul and I ordered our lunch: a large scallop basket (I managed to secure the LAST of the scallops SCORE) which came with fries and cole slaw, a cheeseburger for Paul (apparently he was all 'seafooded' out by this point - his mom would be shocked that this would happen to anyone related to her! *smile*), an order of onion rings, an order of fries, and two diet Pepsis (I know – why bother with diet with all of that fried stuff?) The total was about $25. When your order was taken you were given a number, when it was ready they called out your number and you were able to pick it up.

The seafood was amazing. My scallops were huge and there were about 25 in the basket. Luckily mom and Paul were ‘willing’ to help me out because there was no way I could have eaten them all on my own! By the time we were ready to head out again there was a huge line up of people waiting for their lunch – obviously this place was well known and for good reason!

100_3444 100_3446

July 13, 2007

Cottage in the Woods

100_3215As I have mentioned we decided to rent a cottage to stay in while we were on Deer Isle. I found the cottage on-line. It is owned and rented by a company called Dry Cove Cottages.

The web site looked quite interesting and after a series of e-mails back and forth we had our contract signed and ready to go. The interactions with the owners were quick and efficient. The cost of the rental for the week was $ 900 which worked out to $ 300 each, far less than any hotel would have been.

The cottages (we stayed in cottage # 1) were uniquely located and beautifully finished with knotty pine and other natural finishes. Our cottage was situated in a grassy  clearing surrounded by towering alders and fir trees,  located  in the quiet, beautiful woods of Maine.  There are two cottages and each is identical (with the exception of color) and they are a 1/16 of a mile apart.  Away from the road, located on a 20+ acre plot, surrounded by woods and wildlife.  The quiet and privacy was incredible!

The cottages are suitable for active couples, groups of friends and families with or without children, yachters and kayakers, seminars or retreats. In short, anyone who wanted to take advantage of all Deer Isle and the surrounding area had to offer.

100_3212The cottage's kitchen was fully equipped for our cooking needs.  It was fully supplied with brand new appliances including: Stove, Refrigerator, Microwave, Coffee maker & Grinder. In addition there was a block of great knives, dishes and silverware, glasses, assorted pots and pans, mixing bowls; just about anything you'd need for cooking. The only thing missing was a toaster but we ended up using the broiler for that.

The owners have also included everything you will need to prepare, cook and eat lobster (except the lobster of coarse), including cooking books for Maine's famous seafood.  The kitchen's design made cooking enjoyable and easy.  The owners have toped the kitchen off with beautiful wood floors, a big bar top and very wide, comfortable bar stools.

The remainder of the main floor was made up of a large great room. It had a huge coach (which pulled out into a Queen sized bed), 2 reclining chairs (which mom and Paul enjoyed a good deal) and a TV with a built in DVD/VHS player.

100_3211

You reached the upstairs by way of a wide flight of stairs:

100_3210

Upstairs were two bedrooms and the bathroom. The first bedroom contained a queen sized bed, the second a set of bunk beds and a twin bed. The linens were provided. The mattresses were the most comfortable we had ever slept on. We all wanted to bring them home! The only drawback about the bedrooms was a lack of dressers or closets; when I'm in a rental I like to be able to take my stuff out of the suitcase and feel as if I belonged! It was a small point and we made do just fine.

The bathroom was large. It contained a shower stall, toilet, and sink. Again, ample linens were provided. There was lots of hot water (another thing which can be a problem in rentals).

100_3474One of the nicest things about the cottage was the large wrap-around veranda. We spent countless hours on the veranda reading, sipping martinis, listening to the birds, watching the fireflies, and just relaxing.

Over the years we have rented numerous cottages and other vacation rentals. We have decided that this was one of the best ever! We can't wait to go back again and enjoy all that Deer Isle has to offer.

July 11, 2007

Our Trip

100_3177 This spring Paul and I did a road trip up the coast of California. It was quite far removed from the philosophy of slowtravel and I felt unsettled. I convinced myself that I'd not do something like that again; I felt like I just never got to see anything.

This summer we decided to rent a cabin in Maine to avoid the 'unsettling feeling' of a road trip - this would provide a slowtravel feeling however it would also provide a bit of a road trip because it is such a long drive from home!

This was our itinerary:

Day 1 - leave Burlington late in the afternoon (after Paul finished up work), drive to Syracuse NY

Day 2 - Syracuse to Portsmouth NH, explore Portsmouth

100_3125 Day 3 - Outlet Mall shopping in Kittery, ME; explore York ME, Yarmouth ME, and shopping at LL Bean in Freeport, ME. Finish the day in Augusta

Day 4 - Deer Isle

Day 5 - Deer Isle (Eco Cruise on Captain Bill's lobster boat in the afternoon) 

Day 6 - Deer Isle (sea kayaking)

Day 7 - Deer Isle (4th of July)

Day 8 - Deer Isle and Bar Harbor

Day 9 - Deer Isle

Day 10 - Deer Isle

Day 11 - Deer Isle - Albany NY

Day 12 - Albany NY to home

100_3293The parts of the trip there and back were really just a blurr consisting of driving, buying gas, eating, and sleeping. We had a wonderful first dinner in Syracuse at a restaurant called Dinosaur BBQ, followed by great dinners at BGs Boathouse in Portsmouth, and the Whale's Rib, in Deer Isle.

California used to be my favourite US State but now I'm not so sure. Maine was amazing. The cottage was great, boating was great, the day of sea kayaking was great, the lobster, scallops, crab, haddock, halibut etc was great, Deer Isle was great, the art was great. Oh, did I say Maine was great?

100_3301The highlight of the week for me was spending the 4th on Deer Isle. The parade was wonderful - not the glitz you'd find in a big city but honest local emotion and feeling. We followed the parade with a trip to Ames' Pond - a HUGE pond (formerly used for ice blocks to send to Jamaica) that is now filled in with the most brilliant pink, white, and yellow water lilies; it made those paintings by that Monet look like washed out scribbles. Then we went to the Masonic Hall where we enjoyed the lobster supper - $ 15.99 got you a lobster, corn, salad, cake, a drink, and lots of great conversation and fun. We rested in the afternoon and then went to the Stonington Pier for the fish and fritter fry - YUM The evening finished off with a ride on Captain Bill's lobster boat out into the harbour to watch the fireworks set off on an island. WOW It was so amazing to share the 4th with the folks on Deer Isle!

100_3475It really was relaxing (once we got on the island) I finished up the last 2 books in the Anne Perry WW I  mystery series, read the latest Stephanie Plum mystery, and plunged through the first 2 Harry Potter books. . . 4 more to go before the 19th . . . I miss the birds, the fireflies, and sitting on the deck at night sipping martinis.

I wish Maine were closer dammit!

Oh yeah - the outlet shopping was great! Far too great. I am now afraid to go on-line and look at my VISA statement. OUCH Thank god the Canadian dollar went up to 95 cents US last week.

100_3230We spoke to so many locals who just wanted to chat our ears off. They apologized for W, coveted our health care, and many even knew we had some problems of our own with our prime minister. Never have I met such friendly people (well, away from Slow travel anyway).

Deer Isle is a hot bed of art and crafts. We spent a number of days gallery hopping. I bought 3 paintings, some pottery, glasswork, and some hand woven linens.

The weather was great. Nice temperatures, it only rained for a prolonged period once. I am dieing in this heat and humidity here at home.

The cottage was everything we had hoped for -nestled in a stand of pine trees, it was private, very well equipped, and had the most comfortable beds we have ever experienced. I wanted to bring them home!

 

July 10, 2007

The Boys Respond to an Extended Time Alone

Whenever we go away one of our main considerations is the cats: who will pop in and care for them. We're lucky that our friend Ruth lives 5 minutes away, mom lives close by, and Paul's mom lives nearby as well. On this trip Paul's mom and Ruth did the duties which was greatly appreciated: we could travel and not worry about the cats (although we did think about them and even miss them, although I confess to not missing the fur balls Victor regularly barfs up on the carpet!).

I know that the guys missed us (well, they missed having humans around, whether or not there is any attachment to us is debatable). Ever since we have returned they have been around constantly. Beckett 'yells' to be picked up constantly. Victor is more restrained, he just hops up on the desk while I'm working and sits there, just barely touching me. Last night was hell though - our first night back in the heat and humidity and the two cats craved affection. I lay in bed with 2 huge feline blankets - ARGH

We always try and pop into a cat store while we on vacation so that we can get the guys a treat; a souvenir of our travels. We found just the place in Bar Harbor. At a store called Bark Harbor, located in Bar Harbor (imagine) we found catnip lobsters! Of course we bought up all that they had. Tonight Victor and Becket were given their souvenirs.

Here they are loving their treats from Maine (although I'm sure they'd love a 'real' lobster even more!)

100_3481 100_3482

100_3485 100_3487

Now of course the drugs have taken effect, this is Beckett 'sleeping it off':

100_3489

This brings back vivid memories (or should anyway) of my youthful indiscretions!

July 09, 2007

Back from Vacation

Hello again, it has been 11 days since I last posted here. Hmm, the regular readers wonder, there have been posts everyday, what gives?

Typepad allows one to create posts in advance and set a particular publishing date and time. So before I left, in the midst of all the other things I had to do, I created enough posts to cover my absence. I was mildly concerned that some significant world event (i.e. Paris Hilton being arrested again for some drunken episode which for some reason passes as world news while people are dieing of famine, AIDS, cancer, war, terrorism, etc (there's my political comment for the day!)) would occur in my absence and folks would find me lacking in sensitivity because I didn't comment on it!

So what was up?

Mom, Paul, and I drove to

100_3141 

Maine.

Where we stayed on an

100_3161

island called Deer Isle.

We rented an amazing

100_3215

cottage in the woods.

(Notice the Canadian flag windsock which we put up right away in honour of Canada Day)

The cottage was located close to

100_3259

Stonington, which has one of Maine's largest lobster fishing fleets.

We ate lots of

100_3114 100_3129 100_3131

100_3298 100_3354  100_3199_2

lobster!

We celebrated Paul's birthday, Canada Day, and

100_3378

the 4th of July.

We saw historic sites, ate in great restaurants, shopped, hiked, read, relaxed, went on boats, went sea kayaking, and slept!

The best of all was sitting on the deck of the cottage at night, sipping martinis, and watching fireflies dance over the lawn.

More later . . .

 

My Photo

Countdown

Maine 07

  • Castine
    At the end of June mom, Paul, and I drove to Maine where we spent a wonderful vacation. These photos show some of the highlights.

Memories of Italy

  • Castello Sant'Angelo
    In the fall of 06 we spent three glorious weeks in Italy. I've selected some of my favourite shots and incuded them in this album.

Slow Bowl 2008

  • The Haul
    We left the snow behind and headed to California for a long weekend of fun. We shoppedm toured wineries, tasted olive oil, met up with good friends, and ate some wonderful food. I can't wait for slow bowl 2009.

Where in the World?

Blog powered by TypePad