A Life, Lived

Cilantro Rice with Chicken

I arrived back home today from work and Paul had planned dinner for tonight and tomorrow night. Tonight he was making one of his favourites form the Cooking Light Magazine: Cilantro Rice with Chicken. For this recipe a sauce of fresh cilantro, green onions, ginger, and garlic is stirred into the cooked rice to give it intense fragrance and flavor. Shiitake mushrooms add an earthy, smoky flavor. We have had this a few times and really enjoy the flavours. There are those who do not like cilantro - we do not fit into that category - we love it so much that we even add it into salads!

Rice:
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cups quartered shiitake mushroom caps (about 6 ounces)
1/4 cup chopped green onion bottoms
1 (1/2-inch) piece peeled fresh ginger
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 cups uncooked long-grain rice
2 teaspoons ground cumin
6 skinless, boneless chicken thighs (about 1 3/4 pounds), cut into bite-sized pieces
3 cups fat-free, less-sodium chicken broth

Sauce:
2 cups loosely packed cilantro leaves
1/2 cup fat-free, less-sodium chicken broth
2 tablespoons chopped green onion tops
1 teaspoon chopped peeled fresh ginger
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 garlic clove, peeled

Topping:
1 teaspoon olive oil
2 cups grape or cherry tomatoes, halved
2 tablespoons chopped green onion tops
Cilantro sprigs (optional)

Preheat oven to 350°.

Yield: 8 servings (serving size: about 1 cup rice mixture and about 1/4 cup tomato topping)

CALORIES 339 (18% from fat); FAT 6.8g (sat 1.4g,mono 3g,poly 1.3g); PROTEIN 25.3g; CHOLESTEROL 82mg; CALCIUM 44mg; SODIUM 416mg; FIBER 1.8g; IRON 3.9mg; CARBOHYDRATE 41.5g

Cooking Light, MARCH 2002

To prepare rice, heat 1 tablespoon oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add mushrooms, green onion bottoms, ginger piece, and crushed garlic; cook 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in rice, cumin, and chicken; cook 1 minute. Stir in broth; bring to a boil. Cover and bake at 350° for 25 minutes. Remove from oven; let stand, covered, for 10 minutes.

To prepare sauce, place cilantro and next 5 ingredients (cilantro through peeled garlic clove) in a food processor or blender; process until smooth. Stir into rice mixture. Discard ginger piece.

To prepare topping, heat 1 teaspoon oil in a medium skillet over medium-low heat. Add tomatoes; cook 2 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons green onion tops. Place rice mixture in a large bowl; spoon tomato topping over rice. Garnish with cilantro sprigs, if desired.

Back

It is incredible how quickly one forgets that they have had a vacation upon their return . . .

We didn't arrive home until close to midnight on Monday (after a long weather related delay at SFO). Our luggage was slow off the plane but the great thing was that we were breezed through customs by a guard who looked at our form, clarified that our 12 bottles of alcohol (we claim EVERYTHING) was all wine, and upon hearing our affirmative told us to think of her as we enjoyed the vino. It was our shortest trip through customs with well over the legal limit of wine for a duty free entry into Canada (2 bottles a person). We have never been charged duty and as I have said, we claim everything.

The cats were thrilled to see us when we got home. They are neat that way - not quick to show exuberance (i.e. the dog who is so excited to see you that you get piddled on) but sure to let know you that you have been missed.

By about 2 am I had tossed and turned for awhile and given up on going to work on Tuesday.

Thank goodness. I was so exhausted when I work up. Paul was MR Cranky because he was tired and did not want to go to work, but off he did.

I puttered around the house, drinking Peet's coffee (I brought 1 lb home with me), fed the birds, relaxed and did the laundry. I was reminded of how much I appreciate it that Paul does the laundry when after completing 2 loads i remembered an important step that I had forgotten - soap!

I couldn't have contemplated work.

Unfortunately work waits for no one and things have been crazy. As I type i am sitting in yet another hotel room - for the next 2 days we have close to 200 teachers from around the province here for a curriculum conference. Getting this off of my plate will be a huge thing.

It doesn't end there though -on Wednesday I started working with a writing team who I will be working with to write a book on classroom management. Next week I am in Ottawa for three days for another  conference - this one as an attendee - with a focus on bullying and creating safe environments for children.

Paul will wonder if I am ever home!

San Francisco 2

This was our last full day in the city; it was to be all about art, food, art, and more food. My perfect day!

We started off by heading to the de Young gallery located in Golden Gate Park. Founded in 1895 in San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park, the de Young Museum has been an integral part of the cultural fabric of the city and a cherished destination for millions of residents and visitors to the region for over 100 years. Even though we had been in the city three times before we had never been to the de Young (twice it was closed for the new construction and the third time it was closed on a Monday - ARGH - note to self, always check the closing dates!)

On October 15, 2005, the de Young Museum re-opened in a state-of-the-art new facility that integrates art, architecture and the natural landscape in one multi-faceted destination that will inspire audiences from around the world. Designed by the renowned Swiss architecture firm Herzog & de Meuron and Fong & Chan Architects in San Francisco, the new de Young provided San Francisco with a landmark art museum to showcase the museum’s priceless collections of American art from the 17th through the 20th centuries, and art of the native Americas, Africa, and the Pacific.

We parked underneath the gallery and picked up the tickets and audio guide we had ordered on-line. The first order to business was to climb the 9-story tower for a commanding view of the city. WOW Even on a foggy day the view was incredible. Back down on Terra firma we explored the collection. The gallery has a huge collection of American art. This is where we spent much of our time.

The de Young houses one of the finest collections of American paintings in the United States. Strengthened by the acquisition of the Rockefeller Collection of American Art, the de Young's treasures include more than 1000 paintings that represent a spectrum of American art from colonial times into the twenty-first century. Gems of the collection include George Caleb Bingham's Boatmen on the Missouri, Frederic Edwin Church's Rainy Season in the Tropics, Richard Diebenkorn's Ocean Park #116, and 20th-century treasures from artists such as Georgia O'Keeffe, Edward Hopper, and Grant Wood. It was fascinating to me to see the development of the various genres over the history of the USA.

Unfortunately this was the extent of what we were to see on this visit because we had lunch reservations.; oh well, an excuse to return!

Lunch was at a restaurant in the new Letterman complex called Pres a Vi. I had read great things about it and then a slowtravel pal who I know knows all about great food (Judy) advised us that we should try it. Her nephew works in their sister restaurant  in Walnut Creek and had good things to say about it. For outsiders like us, this new small-plates restaurant was also am excuse to roam the 23-acre Presidio campus.

Chef Kelly Degala -- who grew up in Hawaii and trained in Italian and French cooking -- brings an international flair to the small-plates menu. Because the restaurant is twice as big as his suburban property in Walnut Creek, he's transferred his base of operations here, and orchestrates the chaos behind an arched opening framing the kitchen.

Also because of its size -- there is a 40-seat lounge with a 38-seat bar area, three dining areas, private dining rooms, an open kitchen, a glass-enclosed wine room and an outdoor patio that seats 40 -- the restaurant is like no other in San Francisco. The host station looks more like a hotel concierge desk, with its red-shaded lamps, curved facade and conservatively dressed greeters.

There was a lot to choose from on the lunch menu, which offers more than 30 savory items, plus daily specials. Because the restaurant is a 'small plates' menu we ordered a number of things and shared. We tried a green papaya salad with grilled chicken, the famous duck buns, wild mushroom ravioli, and an ahi tuna melt. The food was all incredible!

Dovetailing with these eclectic dishes is an extensive beverage list that includes well-made cocktails and at least 16 wine flights offered by the taste or the glass.

Fortunately, the staff is adept at pacing the dishes and bringing clean plates, so the flavors don't mix further. The kitchen and staff work together to ensure that diners have a good experience.

We both agreed that our meal there was one of the best we have ha din the city.

After lunch we made our way to the Legion of Honor to explore their collection. Like the de Young we had never made it to this gallery before. The Legion of Honor, considered by many to be San Francisco's most beautiful museum, displays an impressive collection of 4,000 years of ancient and European art in an unforgettable setting overlooking the Golden Gate Bridge.

Built to commemorate Californian soldiers who died in World War I, the Legion of Honor is a beautiful Beaux-arts building located in San Francisco's Lincoln Park. Overlooking the Pacific Ocean, Golden Gate Bridge and all of San Francisco, the Legion is most noted for its breathtaking setting. Its collections include Rodin's Thinker, which sits in the museum's Court of Honor, European decorative arts and paintings, Ancient art, and one of the largest collections of prints and drawings in the country.

After seeing the collection we headed back to the hotel to nap. Art, culture, and food had taken its toll on us!

Later we shopped around the Union Square and checked out the huge new expansion to the Westfield Centre - WOW. I was finally able to check out Bristol Farms - a high end grocery store that my slowtravel buddy Pamla in Palm Desert had told me about. They have a location in the cantre and it was every bit as good as she had said.

After a quick shop it was back to the hotel to change for dinner. Tonight it would be a short walk - our reservations were for a restaurant in the hotel itself - woo hoo.

Colibri Mexican Bistro serves authentic Mexican food steeped in a rich family tradition. From great guacamole prepared and served tableside with fresh homemade tortillas to the tender chicken mole in a rich flavorful sauce, the food at Colibri is a refreshing twist on Central Mexican Cuisine.

With Tapas style servings, Colibri is great for sharing with entire table. Everyone has a chance to sample a wide range of dishes in one sitting. Colibri also boasts one of the most extensive tequila collections in San Francisco, so a special margarita is a great way to begin this dining experience.  Paul certainly enjoyed trying the different tequila in margaritas. The food here was amazing and I would definitely recommend it to all who love authentic Mexican food with a 'twist'.

After dinner we rolled back to the room to pack and crash!

What a wonderful last full day in SF.

San Francisco 1

We have returned home from our trip to CA but I am behind in my blogging. Today is a recap of Saturday's events.

We awoke in Monterey quite tired from the late evening before. OK, I'll admit it. Paul was hung over - he blamed it on the grappa that he consumed. I felt fine. Being the considerate partner that I am I headed out to get coffee while he drowned his tired head in the shower.

After breakfast we loaded up the car and headed north to the wonderful city on the bay. This was our fourth trip to SF and as always we were excited. We had a weekend of art, food, and shopping planned before we headed home to TO.

The trip north was varied - we traversed artichoke fields, redwood forests, estuaries, cattle grazing areas, sub divisions, and mountains. We arrived in SF well before our reservations at the Slanted Door (1:45). Parking was a challenge but we managed to prevail.

Having parked we enjoyed the splendour of the Ferry Terminal market. The market was the busiest that we had ever seen - the glories of spring in norther CA were everywhere. We ohhed and awed over all of the fresh berries, flowers, and vegetables. I even consumed an order of beer-battered asparagus with an amazing dipping sauce to tide me over until our late lunch.

Inside we went to many of our favourite vendors. I picked up some olive oil from Stonehouse Olive Oil and coffee from Peets. As we walked about we noticed folk carrying bags with the slowtravel insignia on them - clearly these were the gang we were to meet later in for lunch!

Lunch at the Slanted Door was an arranged slowtravel get together (GTG); 17 people were to drop in on this favourite SF restaurant for good food, good company, and good times. It promised to be even more special when a ST board member form the UK who would be arriving from London the night before suggested that she might pop in for a visit after she arrived in the city. In the back of this pic you see her and her husband - welcome to SF!

Paul had picked the menu months before. We were to enjoy:

Appetizers:
crispy imperial rolls with shrimp, pork and glass noodles
Slanted Door spring rolls with shrimp, pork, mint and peanut sauce
green papaya salad with tofu, rau ram and roasted peanuts


Entrées

chicken claypot with caramel sauce, chilies and fresh ginger
Meyer Ranch shaking beef cubed filet mignon with garlic, watercress and organic red onions
caramelized tiger prawns with garlic, organic onions and chili sauce
bok choy with baby shiitake mushrooms

The restaurant gave us their glassed in private room which allowed for lots of talk and laughter in this amazing place.

After lunch Paul and I headed to our hotel - the Hotel Diva. The hotel is a small boutique hotel located about 2 blocks from Union Square on Geary Street. We had no difficulty finding the hotel and when we did we were advised that they didn't have a king room for us but they would put us in a suite for no additional charge. It turned out to be a wonderful compromise!

The room was wonderful - quirky yet warm. Both the bedroom and the living room had huge wall-mounted flat screen TVs. The furnishings were high end and quite modern. Once we checked in we knew that we would enjoy our two night stay here.

Our reservation including in and out parking. This is a significant consideration in SF because parking can be quite expensive. The hotel charges those without a special reservation $ 35 plus taxes for parking - ouch! The only drawback was that you needed at least 30 - 45 minutes advance notice if you wanted your car. Once we had figured this out we were fine.

Later that afternoon, after a short rest, we decided to check out some of our favourite shops in the area.

After shopping it was time head back to the hotel and to dress for dinner.

Dinner was at a restaurant called NOPA. Nopa is a San Francisco gathering place north of the Panhandle, serving urban rustic food and specializing in organic wood-fired cuisine. One side of the 110-seat restaurant is devoted to the bar, with 20 seats at the polished concrete counter and a large communal table -- design elements that enhance the already festive mood. This area was quite full with people who hadn't been able to score reservations. Luckily I had persevered and made one a month ago.

The crowd is as eclectic as the area. There are loads of young professionals, artists who adopted the area before it became cool and a few older residents who have called the neighborhood home for decades. The servers, know what they're doing, yet still maintain a relaxed attitude. 

Chef Jossel has placed his new J and R rotisserie in the place of honor in the front of the open kitchen, and treats it like his firstborn. It's manufactured by the same company that produced the spit at Oliveto; at Nopa, you'll likely see up to 18 chickens slowly turning above asparagus or other vegetables on the grill, alongside fresh-ground hamburgers dripping their luscious fat onto the almond wood below.

The crew not only brines the birds, but also tucks fresh herbs under the skin. In the same vein as the Zuni Cafe, Jossel serves a half chicken ($17) with spring greens, drizzling mustard vinaigrette over the salad and the bird. The spit is also used for the smoked-kissed London broil ($19) that's accented with horseradish cream and a mound of mashed potatoes.

The grill under the rotisserie can also take credit for producing one of the best pork chop ($18) I have ever enjoyed: Almond wood accentuates the thick chop's natural sweetness, and it's served with braised greens and creamy-tender flageolets. I ordered the pork chops and it was one of the most amazing pieces of meat I have had in recent memory!   

Few kitchens I know of can grill, wood-roast and fry, another indication that the food is at the heart of this operation; the execution is fantastic.    

There's so much to love, all you want to do is to sit back and be pampered, which brings us to the final reason that Nopa stands apart from much of its competition: even before you get to the end of the meal, you realize that this is truly your lucky day. The wine lists and drinks are outstanding!

After dinner we caught a cab home through the SF drizzle and enjoyed a relaxing night at the hotel. It had been a full day in SF - wonderful food and amazing company!

---

Paso Robles to Monterey

We are actually home now but I didn't finish updating the trip in CA so here goes:

We had a leisurely start to the day in Paso Robles. Gloria had suggested having breakfast at a place called the Cowgirl Café. The café is a local chain of sorts with two or three restaurants in the area. The place was full when we arrived at 9 am on a Friday morning. The food was good, hot, and hearty home-style cooking. After a wonderful breakfast ($18 – cash only, NO credit cards accepted) we headed out.

The first stop was the new Trader Joe’s which had just opened up in Templeton. The store is located right on the highway at the Vineyard rd cutoff. There we stocked up on the provisions for our picnic: a fig salad, apples, yoghurt, meat, and buns. Leaving the store we turned left at the stop sign on Vineyard Road and headed to highway 46 which would take us to highway 1.

The 46 winded through extremely pastoral land as it rose and fell across 2 mountain ranges before we finally ended up near the coast. We passed through vineyards, orange groves, lemon groves, and many cattle ranches. There were few cars on the road and we made good time (except for the fact that we kept stopping for photo breaks!).

Not long after getting on the 1 we pulled off into Cambria. I had half a tank of gas and wanted to be sure that I had a full tank before heading up the coast. I’m sure that there will be a few spots to fill up on the way but I imagined that the cost would be outrageous (this prediction was correct!) Cambria was a lovely place – when we’re next in the area we will definitely spend some time here!

Our drive up the coastal highway was amazing. We took our time. Stopped at just about every stop to take pictures and generally enjoy the view. The wildlife and flowers were incredible. It was foggy but the fog seemed to come and go – one minute I had to slow down considerably because visibility was poor, around the next bend it was clear and sunny.

At one stop we watched a large ‘heard’ of elephant seals making their way up from feeding to the beach. For awhile you could only hear them as they made their way ashore. It was fascinating watching them move across the beach to an open spot where they lay in the sun. Every now and then when it got too hot for them they would dig into the sand with their flipper and toss the cool sand on their backs. There were more than 200 hundred seals enjoying the sunshine – lucky them.

Back in the car we continued north. Just south of Julia Pfeiffer State Park we noticed a sign for a picnic area so we turned off. The road made its way under the highway to where a cool mountain stream reached the ocean. There was a large rocky beach where we decided to stop and enjoy our lunch. A large boulder substituted for a picnic table and two smaller rocks became benches. Lunch was great – the waves crashing into the shore, seabirds crying out, the distant sound of the stream gurgling through the rocks – it was idyllic. Until the bugs showed up – ARGH we ate with one hand and fended off those beasts with the other.

Having filled a gap and grown tired of bugs we hopped back in the car and continued north. Before long we were in Monterey. We found our hotel – the Sand Dollar Inn which was clean and conveniently located (but not luxurious accommodation by any stretch of the imagination). After unloading the car we headed out to see the famous aquarium.

I have a philosophical difficulty with aquarium: the notion of taking dolphins and killer whales out of their natural habitat and plunking them into a fish tank sickens me. Paul really wanted to go to the aquarium. I had a dilemma. Friends of mine who had been to the aquarium told me that it focused on ecology and preservation rather than being a huge fish tank; with that in mind I relented.

The Monterey Bay Aquarium, which is located in a former sardine cannery and a former brewery on Cannery Row in Monterey, is one of the largest and most respected aquariums in the world. It has an annual attendance of 1.8 million and holds 35,000 plants and animals representing 623 species.

Among the aquarium's numerous exhibits, two are of particular note. The centerpiece of the near shore wing is a 33-foot (10-m) high tank for viewing California coastal marine life. This tank was the first in the world to simulate tidal currents on a large scale, enabling the aquarium to keep live California Giant Kelp (water movement is a necessary precondition for keeping Giant Kelp, which absorbs nutrients from surrounding water and requires turbidity). The second exhibit of note is a one million gallon tank in the Outer Bay Wing which features the world's largest single paned window (crafted by a Japanese company, the window is actually 4 panes seamlessly glued together through a proprietary process).

In addition to this we enjoyed the various displays of jellyfish. It was fascinating to watch them move about. The facility uses tricks of light and sound to further enhance the displays and this was effectively done in the jelly fish area.

The other display we were amazed at was the sea otter display – we had seen sea otters on some of our various jaunts up close but hadn’t seen them and their antics up close. The display is set up so you can see them from above the surface as well as beneath. Beginning on March 31st the Aquarium is opening a special exhibit devoted to freshwater otters entitled ‘Wild About Otters’ it will be very popular!

After we left the aquarium we rested at the hotel before heading to Carmel to meet Wendy and Rob – two fellow ‘slow travelers’ for dinner. We had dinner at a wonderful Italian restaurant called Cantinetta Luca. The restaurant offers casual, informal dining, featuring menu items such as delicious pizza, baked in an authentic, Italian, no gas, wood-burning pizza oven. Luca also specializes in antipasti, a dozen or so varieties of salumis and handmade pasta. Whole fish and roasted meats are served family style. All of the presentations are simple and rustic; food prepared with fresh seasonal ingredients to bring out bold flavors.

The interior decor of Cantinetta Luca is antique/modern, inspired by the old refurbished buildings of Italy. The design is a blend of stone, brick and glass, chiseled wood and bright Italian colors. The decor features a barrel vaulted ceiling, brick and chiseled beams contrasted by superb contemporary furnishings and modern lighting all set off by rich colors and textures.

The only drawback is that the restaurant being very busy is also very noisy. Given that we were with Wendy and Rob, who clearly were well-loved regulars; we were seated at a more private table. Of course the special attention didn’t end there and we were to be treated with many other personal touches: special salumi on the antipasto platter, a glass of prosecco, and a glass of Brunello which the manager just happened to have sitting around opened.

The whole experience was amazing. The food and company was all perfect. The restaurant lists its closing time as 10 but it was 11 before we had left. As Paul and I walked back to the car he declared that the food was the best Italian food he had eaten outside of Italy – a high compliment that!

A short while later we were back at our hotel and sound asleep having had a full and truly spectacular day.

A Coastal California Roadtrip

The 'mature' adult road trip up the coast of California is underway . . .

Yesterday after I checked out of the hotel I gladly left Anaheim. Using Dave's (husband of MarciaB on the slowtravel website) I drove along Mulholland Drive and was able to find the spot he indicated would give me the best view of the Hollywood sign and a lovely view of the city of LA. I knew it was a popular touristy place to be because I had to beat my way through the crowds to get a view of the sign.

Having done this very touristy thing I needed some culture so I went to the Getty Gallery. WOW What a combination of art, amazing architecture, incredible gardens, and super food in the museum restaurant. This amazing gallery is a testament  to a multi billion dollar fund behind a gallery.

The Getty Center, designed by architect Richard Meier, is the $1.2 billion flagship museum of the J. Paul Getty Trust, the largest arts endowment in history (at over $3 billion). It is located on a hill in Brentwood, overlooking Interstate 405 and Bel-Air. The museum is free to the public (although there is a city of Los Angeles imposed parking fee of $ 8). The Getty Center is high enough that on a clear day, it is possible to see the snow at Big Bear as well as the Pacific Ocean and the entire Los Angeles basin.

The museum collects and exhibits classical sculpture and art, European paintings, drawings, manuscripts, sculpture, decorative arts, and photographs. In respect to Getty's collecting intentions, the museum does not generally collect 20th or 21st century art, with the exception of photography.

Grudgingly I left the gallery to pick up Paul at the airport.

Next up . .. outlet mall shopping! The outlet mall in Camarillo was great. We did some damage on the CC and made plans to mail a box load of dirty clothing home to make room for the new stuff.

Our shop-a-rama was followed up by a stay in beautiful Santa Barbara and a walk along the beach as the sun set over the Pacific Ocean. It was a shame that we didn't have more time in SB but Paso Robles was calling our names. We spent the night in a truly horrid motel whose only redeeming features were that it was close to the beach and dirt cheap!

Santa Barbara's Spanish-Mexican heritage is reflected in the architectural style of the mission, courthouse, and many homes and public buildings. When we arrived most of the shops were closed for the evening but we say enough from our walk through the downtown core to know that we would like to return.

We left Santa Barbara early this morning and headed north on the 101. I had booked a reserve tour ($ 20) at Eberele winery in Paso Robles.

Unfortunately there was construction on the 101 and we got delayed. Luckily we were only 30 minutes late for our VIP wine tour at Eberele. Our guide (Garry) took us around the winery and gave us some background history of the Paso Robles area. Down in the caves he took us to the VIP tasting area (pic below). There the table was set with 8 bottles of wine, special tasting glasses, water, and a platter of cheeses and crackers. He took us through the wines, explaining the flavours and some of the 'history' of the various vintages. Not satisfied with those bottles he grabbed 2 more out of the library and we tasted those. WOW 2 hours later we were upstairs paying for 2 bottles to take home and a number of souvenirs.

Paul was felling tipsy (he doesn't know you don't have to drink all of the taste! ) so we found our hotel and checked in. WOW The Adelaide Inn is amazing. We were given a room that has just been renovated and it is huge and very well decorated, in fact I think it is one of the best rooms I have stayed in in recent memory. When I checked in there were freshly baked cookies with white chocolate, dried cranberries, and dried blueberries. Frankly after that the room could have been in a dumpster and I wouldn't have minded! LOL

Our room (a deluxe king) cost only $ 90 including all taxes. This is one of the best travel bargains I have ever had!

Once Paul had recovered we headed out to taste some wine. We visited Justin, Tablas creek, and Adelaida. The setting was wonderful: peaceful, pastoral, and with great wines. We bought 5 more bottles to lug back home to Canada.

Once we dropped the wine back at the hotel we went and explored the town. Having learned a trick from my slowtravel 'twin' Palmabella I mailed a box of dirty laundry home to make room for more wine.

Paso Robles is a great town - much more like Sonoma than Nappa. We shopped at the stores near the town park. We found the olive oil store that people here had spoken about - We Olive. We tasted and bought! The other shop that was amazing was Vivant a newly opened shop that features an eclectic collection of fine cheeses - the blue cheese made with a combination of cow and sheep milk and aged wrapped in chestnut leaves was INCREDIBLE. We bought a selection of 6 cheeses for a picnic tomorrow as we continue on our journey up the coast..

Tomorrow we head up the coast through Big Sur to Monterey and the aquarium. We have plans to meet up with two slowtravel pals for dinner in Carmel.

More fun in the OC

Today was another great day in the OC - yes it was cloudy and it rained a bit but it was a day on vacation and there was none of the Canadian cold and snow so it was grand! Paul called em this morning and it was freezing and snowy in Winnipeg - in fact there was so much snow that he had to borrow his brother-in-law's boots!

I went back to San Juan Capistrano. Luckily the horrid crowds I experienced on the weekend were gone and I was able to enjoy the peacefulness of the site.

What a beautiful Mission - the gardens were incredible too. I watched groups of school kids on tour and commiserated with the teachers who were trying to keep them in line. I don't miss those days!

They had just unveiled a new $ 2 million retablo in the basilica. The 42 foot altarpiece was designed in Spain and featured swallows, grapes, angels, and various statues. If you are in the area be sure to check it out because it was truly amazing.

(I won't get all political and muse about what $ 2 million would to to assist the homeless or anything. Opps, I think I just did . . .)

From there I went to Laguna Beach where I sipped margaritas on the patio. The grilled Ahi burger with wasabi may and pineapple, mango, onion relish was amazing! I wandered around the area and enjoyed the many art galleries.

When I got back to Anaheim I unloaded the car (and wondered how I would ever get all of this stuff back to Canada) and was torn . . . I was less than 100 feet from Disney but I hadn't set foot on the property. I caved but compromised by going to Downtown Disney. I shopped a bit and ate dinner at Catal. MotherJudy (from the slowtravel web board) had told me that she had had a great meal there when she was in Anaheim a few weeks ago - as always she was spot on!

Tomorrow I go to the Getty and then try to find the spot Dave showed me on a map where I will get the best view of the Hollywood sign. Then it is off to LAX to pick up Paul and start our journey up the coast.

I am not sure if the hotels en-route will have internet hook up so this may be it until I return . . .

The Getty Villa & Fun in Pasadena

Yesterday was a great day here in SoCal. When my conference was over I went to Pacific Palisades where I toured the incredible Getty Villa. If you have not been to the Getty do go! It is a testament to what a museum can be like when there is a multi-billion dollar fund behind it.

I read somewhere that Getty was inspired to build the villa after her acquired a wonderful piece of Roman sculpture. The entire villa is done in a Mediterranean theme (not Las Vegas theme park though). The artifacts featured throughout are all Mediterranean: Roman, Etruscan, Greek, and other lesser civilizations (not lesser, just that i forgot or can't spell them!  LOL).

The drive up to the villa is made of huge paving stones that are exactly like the millennia old cobblestones around the Coliseum and the via Sacra in Rome. The cafeteria features a wonderful varied menu and I quite enjoyed the rock shrimp risotto I had there. The risotto and a Pellegrino was $ 14.

I really enjoyed the manner in which the art was arranged - not by era or civilization but by genre. It was not unlike the exhibit Paul and I saw at the Guggenheim last December in New York.I really enjoy seeing how different civilizations/cultures handled a particular genre.

The gardens at the Getty easily rivaled the art. While the flowers were not in full bloom it was easy to imagine what they would be like in all of their glory in a few weeks. In the herb garden the fruit trees were in bloom and the blossoms perfumed the air.

Entrance to the Getty is free but you must reserve a ticket on-line for a particular time. Included in this reservation is a reserved parking spot. Parking costs $ 8.

After leaving the Villa I traveled to Pasadena where I was going to hook up with a group of slowtravel folks for drinks and dinner. I had no trouble finding Pasadena and quickly decided that this was a place I would like to return to at sometime in the future (unlike Anaheim!)

I was walking around the old core and doing some shopping when my phone rang. It was Palma, she had arrived early and was waiting in the hotel lobby.I left my purchases in the car and went off to meet my 'twin sister, separated by birth'. Someone actually though we were related when we were chatting on-line. This isn't the case at all, it is just that we eerily have such similar interests. We hit it off and she showed me her wonderful scrapbooks.

Before we knew it it was time to head out to the wine shop where we were to meet Marcia and Dave. We sampled some wines and indulged in more chatter about this and that. Unfortunately the shop was out of the wine that I tasted or I would have brought some home with me.

Before we knew it it was time to head out for dinner. As we left the wine bar who should appear but another slow travel pal: Kathy.

Dinner was a real treat both because of the good food but more because of the better company. Marcia, Kathy, Palma, and I were just chattering up a storm. It is amazing how you can meet these friends who you have never met physically and when you do there is so much to chat about! I'm sure Brad and Dave were wondering just who these people were that their wives had 'hooked up' with! Before we knew it (and without dessert!) they were closing the restaurant down around us. Kathy noticed that they brought the vacuum cleaner out to do the carpets - a sure sign that!

I got back to the hotel at midnight. Thank goodness the conference is over and I could sleep in today.

Once I feel like heading out today I will go back to San Juan Capistrano to see if the swallows returned this year and then head to Laguna Beach to drink margaritas. Vacation is such a wonderful thing!

An Impromptu Tour of the Coast

Yesterday I attended three sessions at the conference. I had some time off before my final session for the day so I decided to head out and get some lunch. Before I did I thought I would locate the room, when I found it there was a sign saying that my last session of the day was cancelled. As disappointing as that was (and it was, it really was) I decided to get in the car and do some touring.

In less than thirty minutes I was on the Pacific Coast Highway. The weather was cloudy, windy, but not unpleasant. I had originally planned on doing this on Tuesday but the weatherperson is calling for rain so I decided not to chance it. I was really looking forward to an opportunity to wander along a beach.

I've been on the coastal highway in Northern California and loved it. I found the southern stretch to be a bit developed for my tastes. Developed with massive tracts of gorgeous and no doubt extremely expensive homes! Nonetheless I had a wonderful afternoon.

First up was a stop in Long Beach where I picked up some ingredients for an impromptu picnic I would have later in the day. Back on the highway I pulled over in both Huntington Beach and Newport Beach to wander around. It was wonderful to walk along the deserted beaches, smiling at the antics of the surfers.

I decided I was getting hungry so I stopped for longer at Crystal Cove State Park. Here I paid $ 10 to park and did some hiking. It was lovely weather for a trek along the cliffs. There were more people here enjoying the fresh air and lovely scenery but it certainly wasn't crowded. I sat on a bench overlooking the Ocean and enjoyed my lunch of salad, sour dough buns, fruit, and water. I've eaten so much junk food lately that I need to be good!

It is amazing how relaxed I get when I am near the ocean. I am born under the zodiac sign of Cancer and like many who are born under the water signs I do feel a pull to water. I could have sat there all day but I had other things I wanted to do that afternoon.

Back on the # 1 I continued my way south. I passed through Laguana Beach. I hope to come back to check out the art shops on Tuesday. The crowds on a Sunday afternoon were large - I can't imagine what it must be like on a sunny summer's day!

I got off of the highway just past Dana Point and headed north on the 5. I had a moment of temporary insanity at San Juan Capistrano and decided to pull off and see the famous mission. Many people know the story of this mission and how the Swallows return north on their migration on March 19th every year. Yesterday was march 18 and in celebration of the Swallow's return there were all sorts of festivities plnned.

Apparently the swallows are always joined by hordes of tourists who completely overwhelm the area. I suspect that there were 125 tourists for every Swallow! I quickly decided to NOT join the crowds and got in the line of traffic to get back on the highway . . . an hour later (ARGH) I was back on my way north to Anaheim. I will see if the crowds are more manageable on Tuesday.

Back in the hotel I relaxed, read, watched TV, and had a bizarre dinner of leftovers from my picnic augmented by some treats I picked up at Whole Foods. It wasn't anything I would serve to company and the gourmet meal planning gods must have been trembling with fear somewhere but it worked for me.

On the Road . . .

What a pleasure it was to leave Toronto as the eastern coast of Canada and the US was preparing to be slammed but yet another winter storm. I knew that within hours I would be in sunny California. Feeling the lovely warmth of the sun on my face would make up for all of the winter's trauma.

The flight itself was uneventful. Well except for the following: it was delayed, the gate AND plane changed (after the plane was already loaded thereby requiring an unloading of the plane and loading on the new plane), the guy beside me spilled his drink - tomato juice, the movie was Happy Feet, and my luggage was the last off the plane in LA! OK, I guess the flight was fine but lots of the accompanying stuff was a chore.

I didn't care though because when I got to LA it was 80and beautiful. I did think of the suckers back home. Have fun shoveling!

The conference I am attending is in Anaheim. The pic above is the view of Disneyland from my hotel room balcony.

Once I got settled into my room I hopped back into the car and was off to explore. . . the malls. Normally I explore galleries, historical sites, museums, and gourmet restaurants. Unfortunately these are few and far between here in Anaheim.

Anaheim is a suburb on crack. It actually reminds me a Mississauga back home - a suburb that grew, and grew,and grew to the point that it became a major city on its own. The old areas are being eaten up by new developments, in this case hotels, restaurants, and malls. I've never seen so many hotels in one spot in my life (of course, I have never been to Florida so I can't make THAT comparison).

I picked up some great deals while shopping. I finally bought the pasta roller for my kitchen aid mixer. Back home it sells for $ 200 - if you can find one in stock! I found one for $ 99 US which was a steal. When I brought it up to the cashier I flirted shamelessly and received a further discount. In the end it cost me $ 78. I was able to buy some books that I have been looking for with limited success back home. I scored some great deals on wine that  i am unable to get back home as well. In fact I have already stocked up on 4 bottles and we will only bring home 12 - and we haven't been to a single winery yet.This does not bode well for the trip home!

Oh yeah. The conference started today. My Lord the Anaheim convention centre is HUGE! The conference has been great but very tiring . . . today I attended sessions from 8:30 am to 6:15. Currently my brain is on overload! I am not sure I can survive three more days like this.