A Life, Lived: Niagara Wineries

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What a difference a week makes. Last Saturday we enjoyed yet another wonderful day in Niagara wine country. The weather was hot, the grapes were practically popping on the vines as the juice slowly cooked within the skins. Here it is a week later and it is cool, cloudy, and I am sure that the grapes hiding beneath the leaves for warmth!

The Niagara Peninsula is the largest viticultural areas in Canada, accounting for 80 percent of Canada’s grape-growing volume. The climate during the growing season is comparable to that of Burgundy, France. As if to compensate, wines grown in such temperate climates can produce superior fruit, with better aromas and more intense flavours than in warmer climates.

Previously I have blogged about visiting wineries in Jordan, Vineland, and the Beamsville Bench. Last Saturday we visited five wineries (with some long breaks in between) in the Niagara-on-the-Lake wine region.

The historic town of Niagara on the lake is described as "the prettiest town in Canada" and is located on the southern shores of Lake Ontario where the Niagara River ends its journey into this famous Great Lake. It is surrounded by countless award-winning vineyards and wineries and is home to 3 theatres including the world-famous Shaw Festival Theatre. The town is rich in historical, architectural and natural beauty, featuring historic sites and museums. Also featured are casual and fine dining locations, quality shopping selections, local farm markets, a marina, and golf courses.

Earlier this year I made a 'pact' that I was going to focus my wine visits on wineries I hadn't explored previously. I have been relatively successful although I have found it impossible to turn my back on old friends completely *smile*

Coyote's Run

http://www.coyotesrunwinery.com/index.html

Coyote's Run Estate Winery, one of the newer wineries in the region, is located just outside the town of St. David's. It is a bit off the beaten path, but it is well worth seeking this one out as they are receiving critical acclaim for their small-batch, hand-crafted wines. Come in and sample their award-winning premium wines or enjoy a glass of wine on the patio in their relaxed, rural setting.

Being a new winery it came as a shock Pinot Noir of the Year! Their hand-crafted wines of quality and distinction are representative of their unique terroir and microclimate.

When we arrived the tasting room was quiet which allowed for a very friendly exchange with the staff.

We tried four wines here:

2005 Rosé $15

This one had hints of wild berries, and a wonderful perfume on the nose. We found it dry and refreshing, with cranberry and red currant fruit flavours with a hint of spice on the finish. Having said that, we didn't enjoy it as much as some other Niagara dry rosés which we have tried.

2005 Pinot Noir $30

This was amazing - bursting with back cherries and blackberries on the nose with pomegranate and black cherries on the palate. Still young, this will age nicely.

2004 Bob Izumi Red $25

We were told that Bob Izumi is some well know fisherman with a show on the sport network. Guess what? I don't even know where to find the sports network! Apparently he was looking for a fund-raiser and the winery owner partnered with him. This blend (the exact make up is known only to the wine maker) is an enticing mix of berry fruit on the nose with mouth-watering raspberry and blackberry fruit and hints of spice, vanilla and toast on the palate. Better yet, a dollar for every bottle sold goes to support wetland preservation.

2005 Meritage $24

The 2005 vintage was a great one for Bordeaux-style blends. This wine features a blend of berry fruit and mulling spices on the nose. A rich, silky mouth-feel with a dark chocolaty finish.

We ended buying the last three bottles to bring home (so much for the 'no wine before you go to Paso Robles' rule which Paul had imposed upon me).

Lailey

http://www.laileyvineyard.com/

Donna and David Lailey are long-term grape growers in the Niagara-on -the-Lake region of Niagara. The Lailey Vineyard was first planted in 1970. The vineyard totals 23 acres planted in vinifera grapes and vidal for ice wine. In partnership with Derek and Judith Barnett, Tonya Lailey and Yves Starreveld, the Lailey Winery was established in 2000. Lailey Winery has been producing ultra-premium wine under the Lailey brand since that time. The target production in full crop years is 10,000 cases.

I must admit that I was not all that impressed with my visit here. the staff seemed bored and couldn't be bothered with us. It wasn't until we were leaving and I indicated that I had a cooler in the car to keep the wine from 'cooking' in the heat that they started treating us with some enthusiasm.

We tried three wines here: the 2005 Pinot Noir VQA: Spiced cherry and raspberry on the nose with a delicate floral note. Fresh raspberries on the palate along with ripe cherry and toasted spice. A silky texture with some roundish tannins give this wine balance.
$24.95 / 750 ml

2004 Merlot VQA: Only two barrels were made in "04, available in half bottles. Richly coloured with aromas of dark ripe fruits and spice. Medium bodied showing well integrated oak and a long finish.
$19.95 / 375 ml

2004 Cabernet Franc VQA: An often overlooked red wine. Full-bodied with cherry aromas and flavours of cassis and currants. This wine will benefit from aging. Pair with grilled venison.
$28.95 / 750 ml

I had heard about the Cab Franc and it was every bit as good as I had been told. We purchased a bottle to bring home for the cellar.

Marynissen

www.marynissen.com

Marynissen Estates is a small, family owned and operated winery featuring premium vinifera varieties. The Marynissen family has been growing grapes for 50 years and have some of the oldest vinifera vines in the country.

This winery was our 'old friend' on this trip. We have enjoyed their wines before. In fact, this was the first winery where I ever purchased wines by the case. I have about 20 bottles down in the cellar of various vintages which I should be enjoying soon.

Here we tried the 2006 Gamay which had the following written about it as a tasting note:
Cheery cherry colour.
Nose: Strawberry/beet and floral characteristics with a bit of spiciness as well.
Palate: Dry with good acidity, midweight. Great expression of young gamay in the flower of youth. This is a sample drawn for this tasting. Lovely strawberry/cranberry/beet/cherry profile, some richness midpalate, well-integrated ripe tannins, long clean finish.
Conclusions: Early days for this wine but indications of great Gamay are already there. Gamay is looked down-upon by some, and is certainly not the flavour-of-the-month. Ontario may well produce the best Gamay wines in the world. Lovely, fruity, food-friendly and gulpable. This has not yet been priced, but if it comes out below $20 grab some and drink it within 3 years. The wines were below $ 20 so we bought three bottles and headed off for our picnic lunch!

Strewn

http://www.strewnwinery.com/english/home/default.asp

This is a HUGE operation. Strewn offers a unique winery & culinary experience combining a premium estate winery with a Provencal-style restaurant and Canada's only winery cooking school. Surrounded by orchards the property was originally the home of a fruit cannery and has been restored and extensively rebuilt. Strewn is located on scenic Lakeshore Road, bordering Four Mile Creek just before it enters Lake Ontario. Special events at the winery include the Icewine Harvest in January and "Celebrate the Crush", an annual hands-on wine celebration the last Saturday in September, monthly seminars and special tastings each day.

We enjoyed a tasting of three reds: the Strewn 3 (Strewn's flagship red wine made only in the best of vintages. This blend is 65% Cabernet Franc, 22% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Merlot. Powerful aromas of sweet black cherries, leather and tobacco are followed by woodland and dried fruit flavours), The 05 Cab Franc Terroir (Powerfully complex aromas of, plums and the earth fill the glass. A sumptuously textured mouth feel envelopes the rich flavour of dark fruits and ground pepper. The ripe, silky tannins will reward cellaring until 2009 through 2112.), and the Strewn Three meritage. This was a BIG wine bursting with luscious berry flavours and hints of black cherry. It was almost $ 70 a bottle but Paul didn't care - he had to take a bottle of this wonderful stuff home!

Stratus

http://www.stratuswines.com/

This last winery of the day was by far the most visually stunning. Established in 2000, Stratus is a sophisticated, ultra-modern winery that is poised to be one of Niagara’s most prominent top-end wineries. Situated on a mature 53-acre estate, in the historic town of Niagara-on-the-Lake, this state-of-the-art wine making facility focuses on producing small quantities of premium and ultra-premium blended wines. The winery produces two signature blends, Stratus Red and Stratus White, and also produces a limited number of single varietals including Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Riesling Icewine.

This innovative winery utilizes a gravity-flow production system, which ensures a much gentler handling of the grapes and results in a far superior final product. Stratus is also acutely aware of the environmental impact of wine making and utilizes environmentally sustainable practices in its day to day operations. The winery does not use fertilizers or herbicides, is heated and cooled by using geothermal technology, and also utilizes a system for composting organic waste.

Stratus’ tasting room is contemporary in nature, designed by famed designer Diego Burdi; it is well-worth a visit. The room is sleek and sophisticated with floor-to-ceiling windows, an impressive tasting bar and open-rack shelves, which all lend to its modern feel. Guests are invited to sample Stratus’ exceptional wines in comparative “flights” of three wines which are all served in premium crystal stemware. The tasting room adjoins a terrace, which offers guests picturesque panoramic views of the surrounding lush vineyard.

Because their production is so new many of their releases had sold out. We did enjoy the 04 Cab Franc which had an interesting spicy note on the nose that has nothing to do with cool climate Cabernet Franc. It’s a provocative warm spice component that sets the stage for an impressively full Cabernet that makes the most of its raspberry/blackberry fruit and bright balanced acidity. We also enjoyed their ice wine and a Riesling.

I have to say, this notion of trying new wineries has worked wonders. There are so many wineries that have recently opened here in Niagara that I have been missing out on. I have forced myself to try new ones and have been stunned by the complexity and character of the wines. Niagara has come such a long way in just the past five years, it is exciting to imagine where it will be in five more!