a gratuitous self-promotion . . .
One of our photos from Italy has been entered in a photo contest.
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In the fall of 2007 we travelled to Italy. We spent just under three weeks exploring Rome, Venice, Florence, and then plunking ourselves in the heart of Tuscany. It was from this spot that we made day trips to explore the wonders of Tuscany. Before we went I asked all of the group what tey wanted to do or see on the trip. My sister Rose identified wineries as one of her 'must sees'. This presented me with a dilemma because I wasn't that familiar with Italian wines.
In the interest of trip research I started to explore the Italian wine section of the LCBO. Now, I didn't go to the general listings, I went to the Vintages section where they have their higher end bottles or limited release. Say what you want, when this boy does his research he really dedicates himself to it!
It was here where I discovered the wines of Casa Emma. We tried a reserve Chianti Classico which we loved. Sadly it was a limited release and was soon sold out - likely to never return to the shelves of the store. I did some research into the winery and discovered that it was located not far from where we had rented a villa for a week. I knew that I had to visit this winery! After contacting the winery over the Internet I was able to make an appointment for a tour.
Leaving Castellina I took a wrong turn (what a surprise) and we ended up in Poggibonsi. Grr. Finally we figured out where we were and where we needed to go and we managed to get going in the correct direction.
Casa Emma is located in the heart of Chianti, amongst the breathtaking scenery of the rolling hills of San Donato in Poggio. The winery is surrounded by thirty-four hectares of carefully cultivated land. Twenty-one hectares are cultivated with vineyards (mainly Sangiovese, about three hectares of Merlot, and small sections of black malmsey and canaiolo), three hectares are devoted to olive groves and the final five hectares to a botanical park which completely surrounds the historical farm house. Within the farmhouse the family has built a sate-of-the art wine making facility and cellar.
The Bucalossi family bought the company at the beginning of the 1970’s from the Florentine noblewoman Emma Bizzarri, whose name remains attached to the property. Since then, they have been dedicated, with the patience and passion that agriculture demands, to the production of wine (Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Reserve, Soloio and Vin Santo), oil, extra virgin oil, Grappa, vinegar, and a series of delicious gastronomic delights: wine gelatine, rose syrup and cooked wine.
We were late for our tour but it didn’t matter. Paolo, the oldest son of the owners took us around the winery and showed us their wine making process. I have been on many winery tours before but I learned more from this one than I ever had. I think it was because he wasn’t an employee, he was an owner, and wine making was in his blood. He loved wine and was suitably proud of what his family had created here at Casa Emma.
The winery was in the last stages of the crush. We watched the small Ape trucks laden with ripe grapes dump them into the crusher, the stems shot out the end to be used for compost, and the precious juice trickled into a vat below. Paolo showed us how the juice was collected and placed in fermentation tanks. I saw something in that room I had never seen before – a worker was shoveling dry ice into the tanks to slow down the fermentation process which would increase the depth and fullness of the wine.
Back in the tasting room Paolo sat us down and talked about their wines. He told us about the time when the family was almost split asunder because the younger son wanted to try growing a non-traditional grape. Happily they went with the plan and their amazing Super Tuscan wine was the result of this bold experiment. They have experimented with new varietals of grapes and vintages while at the same time as they were perfecting the traditional Chianti wines.
Paolo led us through a tasting of five wines and their vin santo. The vin santo was the best we had ever had – I can see why he admonished us that one should never dunk biscotti in fine quality vin santo. We would have to bring a bottle of this home with us.
He then asked us if we had ever tried grappa. We hadn’t so he poured us some clear liquid. Grappa is a fragrant grape-based pomace brandy of between 40% and 60% alcohol by volume (80 to 120 proof), that is unique to Italy. Literally a word for "grape stalk", grappa is made by distilling pomace, grape residue (primarily the skins, but also stems and seeds) left over from wine making after pressing. It was originally made to prevent wastage by using leftovers at the end of the wine season. It was strong stuff. I politely took a sip and slipped my glass to Paul. I wouldn’t be able to drive if I drank it all. Mom, Rose, and Paul dutifully finished off their grappa. We all bought some wine and headed back to the car.
I must say that the grappa affected some of the group far more than others. One of us, who shall remain nameless, sang a raucous song about a lemon tree for a period of time and then fell into a snore-filled slumber for the remainder of the ride back to the villa.
Our four bottles of Casa Emma wine and the vin santo were carefully packed and made there way across the Atlantic. In fact, we still have 2 laying in the wine cellar awaiting a suitable occasion.
Someone posted on the slowtravel message board recently about how wine was wine, if you couldn't find one particular brand there were many other good brands that you could buy. True, I suppose. To us there is romance and passion in wine. When we open a bottle of wine we had enjoyed first at a winery we aren't just pouring a liquid into a glass, we are reliving a special time. Memories, feelings, thoughts, and emotions pour into that glass along with the wine.
Imagine my surprise when I was in the LCBO a few weeks back and I say a bottle of wine from Casa Emma on the rack. It was that same Chianti Classico that had inspired our amazing visit to Casa Emma last fall! I scooped up all of the bottles that our neighbourhood store had left. Later when mom was next over for dinner, we decanted a bottle, poured the brilliant ruby-coloured wine into glasses, and we were transported back to Tuscany, if only for a short while.
Jerry, of COURSE you ended up in Poggibonsi! It's the Bermuda Triangle of Tuscany...you're lucky you escaped!
I enjoyed your description of why the occasional bottle or two of wine must travel home with us, no matter the inconvenience. It's personal.
Posted by: gail hecko | December 24, 2007 at 01:02 AM
You know it Gail!
I imagine that you have had enough experience with Poggibonsi that you can venture in, find the great bakery, and make your way out again. I was thrilled that we didn't get stuck in the loop there.
Posted by: Jerry | December 24, 2007 at 05:44 AM