A Life, Lived: A Slow Week on Deer Isle

July 23, 2009

A Slow Week on Deer Isle

On the morning we were to leave Portland we made a stop at the Whole Foods to load up on provisions for our week at the cottage. We knew from past experience that once we got on Deer Isle we weren't always likely to find the selection of food that we might be looking for! Of course, the Portland Whole Foods was amazing, making our own nearby Whole Foods look as if it was a corner store by comparison. SIGH

We set off up the coast with one stop planned for along the way. We all wanted to see the Farnsworth gallery in Rockland. The Farnsworth is one of the most respected little art museums in New England. Located right downtown, the Farnsworth has a superb collection of paintings and sculptures by renowned American artists with connections to Maine -- not only Louise Nevelson (who lived in Rockland), but also three generations of Wyeths (N. C., Andrew, and Jamie), plus Rockwell Kent, Childe Hassam, and Maurice Prendergast. Clearly this area of Maine is a magnet for artists!

Rockland was a lovely spot but it was teeming with rain so we didn't feel like wandering about. We weren't alone because the streets were rather deserted. It was to rain on and off until the day we left Deer Isle! Every the local paper was full of articles about the amount of rain and the impact it was having on the area farmers.

Now the constant rain might have dampened the spirits of many but we took it as a sign that we were to sit tight, relax, and slow things down. We are never one to ignore a sign.

The first night we we on the island we treated ourselves to some cheese and crackers to welcome us to the cottage (which was every bit as nice as we had remembered - although the knives had grown exceptionally dull over the two years since we were last there! LOL)

Deer Isle is a fascinating mix of contrasts. It is home to Maine's largest lobster fleet and every day during the season 100s of lobster boats head out to check the traps in the morning and return later with their catch. It is also home to some rather hard living folks. Yet at the same time it is home to wealthy people from 'beyond' who live in massive homes and clearly funnel a good deal of money into the local economy. The island has a HUGE art school and the island is peppered with galleries and studios. The islands has restaurants that feature nothing on the menu that isn't fried (yes, I do include dessert in this). It also has a great cafe (Lily's Cafe) where you can get some of the best sandwiches I have ever tasted. The quirky mix of contrasts make it such a fun place to explore.

Unfortunately, while we were there it was also home to some of the worst fog we had ever seen. The fog was so bad that we weren't able to get out in the kayaks! The lobster boats were fine . . . with their GPS they could skirt the rocks and shoals. Unfortunately we Canadians in our kayaks would not be on the GPS and would be at rish of being sliced in two!

We discovered that there were numerous land preserves on the island - each with relatively well-maintained hiking trails. Whenever there was a break in the rain we headed out. One of the trails went through land that was once owned by Frederick Law Olmsted who is more famous as the co-planner of Central park in NYC. The trail went along a rocky cliff with some stunning views of the ocean and the Stonnington archipelago off in the distance.

The wildflowers on the island were amazing this year. Deer Isle has an annual Lupine Festival that had taken place the week before we arrived. Because the weather had been so cool the lupine were still out in glorious blooms.

Paul turned 34 while we were on the island and we celebrated his birthday in style. I thought that we did pretty good to pull off a home-baked cake in a vacation rental 1000 km from home!

Because we didn't take long day trips off of the island we had a lot of time to explore. We saw so many things that we had missed two years ago when we were crossing to the mainland on a seemingly daily basis.

Mom and I were fascinated by the old graveyards we found - the record they gave of life and death in a remote part of Maine was quite telling. The number of women who died in childbirth was shocking. The number of families lost at sea sad. We were impressed with the way the markers on the graves of veterans were decorated with the American flag. This grave marks the final resting spot of a veteran fo the Revolutionary War:

It was nice to not be rushing about. We read lots of books, watched DVDs and took the most glorious naps. I MISS those naps.

Have I mentioned that the lobster was inexpensive and plentiful? How sad for the fishermen that their best season in years came at the same time as the recession had driven the price of lobster to its lowest level in years. We did our best to assist them but I doubt it will be enough.

Is it any wonder that I have just managed to work off my 'Maine' weight? It takes lots of time on the tread mill to work off all of that lobster!

Posted at 08:24 PM in Art, Family, Food and Drink, Fun, Maine, Travel | Permalink

Comments

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Jerry, what a well written, fully descriptive post. You truly amaze me at the way you can grasp a situation, any situation and make it a celebration, be it a simple night at home, a rainy day or someone specials birthday. I love your style and your flair. It's inspiring. What a wonderful memorable birthday you made for Paul. Then again I'm sure you make every day memorable.

Posted by: Barb Cabot | July 23, 2009 at 09:24 PM

It wasn't so much the lobster as the butta!
He was a beauty!

Posted by: sandi @ the whistlestop cafe | July 23, 2009 at 11:32 PM

MMMM Lobsta!

Posted by: kendall | July 24, 2009 at 11:04 AM

It looks like an amazing location. Congrats on whipping together a BD cake. Love the lobster & the "Lobster Ale". But I don't think that little container would be enough butter for me. :)

Posted by: Marta | July 24, 2009 at 02:18 PM

I'm glad you liked Maine Jerry. The Whole Foods in Portland rocks...I drive three hours just to stock up at it. My niece is the pastry baker at the Atlantic Baking Company in Rockland!

Posted by: Deb R | July 24, 2009 at 03:03 PM

Sounds like a wonderful vacation! Sometimes the activities that arise from bad weather turn out to be the best times, don't they? I believe it was very wet and cool in NS the past couple weeks too. Happily we had great weather for most of our two weeks in Nfld (rained cats and dogs one of our nights camping at Gros Morne though!)

Posted by: Anne | July 28, 2009 at 07:51 PM