This is where I sit blogging away. The neighbourhood is a residential neighbourhood although it isn't quiet like one might expect. It is vibrant, loud, and full of Athenians going about their lives. Clearly the Canadians are a topic of some interest. No one out and out stares (except for the elderly lady in black in the apartment beside us) but when I look up quickly I always meet a set of eyes looking right at me. I smile and wave and they smile back.
Welcome to Pangkrati.
Yesterday I mentioned that I had pretty well beaten the jet lag gods at their game - falling asleep and then waking up on Athenian time had convinced me that miraculously I had immediately adjusted to Greek time. There was a part of me that felt smug. Of course, as I lay in bed last night trying to convince my body that it really was time to go to bed at 1 am local time I realized I was wrong.
For fear of jinxing myself I will NOT comment profusely on the fact that we wandered close to 10 km through the rabbit warren streets of Athens without getting lost. Let's leave it as an observation - we walked a lot. We found all of the sites we wanted to see on our first day. We found the bakery that featured amazing cheese pies that someone on tripadvisor had suggested we should check out. We found an beautiful restaurant in the Plaka where we enjoyed our first souvlaki and moussaka of the trip -all the while sitting on a terrace lined with plants with lots of Greek families talking a mile a minute and the most incredible view of the acropolis. We managed to find our way back to our apartment. We didn't get lost.
There. Just an observation. There is no need for the 'let's not allow this tourist from Canada think he can find his way about Athens' gods to strike today.
We started the day with breakfast on the terrace. Yoghurt (dear lord - I have NEVER had yoghurt like this) which had the 'mix in' in a separate compartment on the side - I had fig and Paul had honey. A bowl of cereal. A couple of pastries for Paul. Coffee and juice. Enough to get us started.
We started off on our journey at about 11. Our goal was to explore our neighbourhood a bit more and then to head out and see some sites. I had asked about the area on tripadvisor and gotten some great advice from area residents - now it was time to find some of the places they had spoke of. It is challenging for a couple of reasons: the language barrier is made more complex because the alphabet is different, when things are translated into English there are often multiple spellings of the same word, and signs are tiny. We love a challenge so we were set!
One of the things that was mentioned was an amazing bakery that sells cheese pies - a popular Greek treat. Walking along we smelled the bakery before we saw it - and what an amazing smell. Even though we had eaten breakfast a short while ago, suddenly we were hungry again! For 5 euro we got two pies and two bottles of water. We walked a bit more and came upon a shaded park where we sat on a bench and ate. The park was full of elderly men enjoying what must have been the national pass time yesterday - debating the outcome of the national election. Well, that might have been what they were debating - we couldn't tell but they were passionate about it!
Looking at the map we realized that we weren't far from the Panathenic stadium. It was originally a natural hollow part of the ground between the two hills of Agra and Ardettos, over Ilissos river. It was transformed into a stadium by Lykourgos in 330-329 BC for the athletic competitions of the Great Panathinaea Festivities. It is believed that the Stadium had a seating capacity of 50.000 people. In the Roman times, the Stadium was used as an arena. A modern restoration of the stadium at the end of the 19th century allowed it to be used for the first Olympic Games that were reborn again in 1896. This was also the site of the finish line of the marathon in the 2004 Olympics.
The National Gardens is located across from the stadium. We enjoyed walking along the trails looking at the flowers and trees. We passed the Zappeio Exhibition Hall which was a hive of activity - we learned later that this was where the current leader was holding his celebration party after the election (although from anything we had read it was to be more of a wake).
In one clearing we came upon a gurgling fountain that was surrounded by old men who were either debating with waving hands, flipping worry beads, or playing chess. A Sunday morning in Athens . . .
We started our tour outside of Syntagma Square the heart of the city but when it was built was on the outskirts of town. It was created in 1834 as part of a grand plan drawn up by the bevy of Bavarian architects called in by King Otto's father, Ludwig I, to create a worthy capital for newly independent Greece.
Originally known as Plateia Vasileos Othon, it became known as Syntagma (that means constitution) Square after a riotous crowd jammed the square on 3 September, 1843, demanding a constitution. King Otto, giving a speech from the balcony of the Royal Palace (now the Greek Parliament), overlooking the square, gave his people — whose ancestors invented the concept — democracy.
In 1990, when Athens was the most polluted city in Europe, exposure to the air here could turn your hanky black in hours. But over the last decade and half, "green" policies have systematically cleaned up the air. Traffic — while still pretty extreme — is limited: even- and odd-numbered license plates are prohibited in the center on alternate days. While car traffic is down, motorcycles are exempt...and their usage is up. Central-heating fuel is more expensive and much cleaner these days (as required by European Union regulations), more of the city center is pedestrianized, and the city's public transport runs with great regularity, also decreasing the pollution of past days.
Today the city's busiest subway station dumps people into the café-filled square. Plane trees (which we enjoyed last spring while walking the walls surrounding the Italian town of Lucca) make Syntagma a breezy and restful spot. Around the square, you see Athens' most venerable hotel the Grande Bretagne, the American Express office, buses to the airport (parked in front of the City Bank), and the start of the new Athens Coastal Tram.
Greece's imposing parliament building, where 300 representatives (elected every four years) tend to the business of state, overlooks Syntagma Square. The origins of this palace of democracy, couldn't have been less democratic. It was built as the Royal Palace by a Bavarian architect, who was under instructions to design a suitably grand home for the new royal family.
It was completed in 1842 at a time of rapidly escalating tensions between the new Bavarian elite and frustrated leaders of the War of Independence. If the palace was designed to impress, then the effect was quite the opposite. The conspicuous consumption angered impoverished locals. The palace, badly damaged by fire in 1909 and refurbished in the 1930s, has been the home of the Greek Parliament since 1935.
In front of the Parliament buildings is the Tomb of the Unknown Warrior. This monument is guarded by the much-photographed evzones (yes, we did the proper thing and took a lot of photos), a special infantry unit of the Greek army. These colorful characters are clad in the traditional pleated kilt (fustanella), white britches, and pom-pom shoes made famous by the klephts, the mountain fighters who battled so ferociously in the War of Independence. The soldiers' skirts have 400 pleats...one for each year of Turkish/Ottoman occupation (and don't you forget it). The evzones change guard every hour on the hour, with a full changing-of-the-guard ceremony, complete with marching band, at 11:00 on Sundays.
Directly across from the Parliament building is Ermou Street - Athens' famous pedestrian mall. It leads from Syntagma (next to McDonald's) down into the Plaka, and west to the Keramikos cemetery and the Gazi district. Just a few years ago, this street epitomized all that was terrible about Athens: lousy building codes, tacky neon signs, trucks double-parked, and noisy traffic. Now shoppers enjoy the ambiance created as countless locals (and lots of tourists) stroll through what has become a people-friendly shopping zone. Many of the department stores on Ermou are housed in impressive neoclassical mansions, and talented street performers (many of them former music professionals from Eastern Europe) provide an entertaining soundtrack.
As we wandered along the street we ran into a church that was located smack in the middle. In other places it would have been torn down to make room for development. This classic Byzantine church is based on a Greek cross (like a plus sign inside a circle, symbolizing the perfection of God) rather than the Latin cross that's common in Western Europe. Telltale signs of a Byzantine church include round arches over the windows, bricks with the mortar surrounding the stones, and a domed cupola symbolizing heaven (always painted inside with the omnipotent "Pantocrator" God blessing us on Earth from its very top). The glass-and-gold-leaf mosaic around the door, while 20th century, is in the traditional style. The church is named for the tax on the cloth merchants that once lined this square.
We continued through the Plaka which was full of tourists - I can't imagine what it would be like in peak tourist season! We did the right thing and purchased a few touristy things. There were ots of tour groups being lead about by guides - apparently the cruise ships don't know that the tourist season is supposed to be over!
Eventually we came upon Athens' Cathedral which was built in 1842. A statue of Damaskinos, archbishop of Greece from 1891–1949, faces the cathedral - Damaskinos was one of the few European Christian leaders who stood up to the Nazis and refused to order the deportion of Jews during the occupation. There were signs posted indicating that those in shorts were not to enter however crowds from the cruise ships were entering wearing shorts so we followed suit. Inside the church we noticed Byzantine splendour and lots od scaffolding which has decorated this church since the earthquake of 1989.
To the left of the Cathedral is the far smaller but much more historic Byzantine Church of Agios Eleftherios. This church fascinated us because it is made up of marble bits that were scavenged from the Ancient Agora in the 12th century. The carved reliefs above the door are part of a calendar of ancient Athenian festivals, thought to have been carved in the second century A.D. The church is sometimes referred to as "the old cathedral," because it was used by the archbishops of Athens after they were evicted from the Parthenon by the Turks.
Wandering about through the maze of streets that make up the Plaka we came upon the monument of Lysicartes. This elegant marble monument is the sole survivor of many such monuments that once lined this ancient "Street of the Tripods." It was called this because the monuments came with bronze tripods that displayed grand ornamental pottery vases and cauldrons as trophies. These ancient "Oscars" were awarded to winners of choral and theatrical competitions staged at the Theater of Dionysus on the southern side of the Acropolis. This remaining monument was erected in 334 b.c. by "Lysicrates of Kykyna, son of Lysitheides" — proud sponsor of the winning choral team that year.
At the top of Eppimenidou street (really a steep set of steep steps leading up to the acropolis) we passed a restaurant that was advertising two lunch specials. We both realized that we were hungry and that a break was needed. We sat on the outdoor terrace which had a great view of the acropolis and had our first taste of 'Greek food. MMMM
Full now we headed around the base of the Acropolis. Soon we were immersed in a maze of tiny whitewashed houses, where we followed the hand painted signs that pointed to the Acropolis. This was the community of Anafiotika - "little Anafi". It was built by people from the tiny Cycladic island of Anafi who came to Athens looking for work after independence. Here, nestled beneath the walls of the Acropolis, the city seemed miles away.
We wandered through narrow paths lined with flowers and dotted with cats dozing peacefully in the sunshine. This was our first 'taste' of the Greek islands - even if it was transported into downtown Athens.
Because of the elections all of the historical sites were now closed. We decided to save the acropolis, agora, and Hadrian's library fro another day and headed back along Ermou towards our apartment. This time when we reached the Parliament buildings there was a most significant show of police - presumably awaiting the potential celebration or rage that might flow from the elections (depending upon who won and lost).
We got back at the apartment by 5. We had been wandering Athens for 6 hours and were exhausted. Happy, sun burned, but exhausted! After a long nap we went out for a quick bite to eat and later joined the neighbours watching the election returns. It was funny listening to all of the apartments along the street playing the same station - particularly when the current leader conceded defeat. The shouts - some happy, others angry, rang out along the street.
Today we're heading out on the subway to spend the day at the National Archaeological Museum. Thank goodness our stay in Athens isn't a day trip - there is no rushing out in the morning. I'm enjoying sitting on our terrace watching the neighbours watching us as I blog . . . .
Wow, I love your "taking us along" on your Grecian adventure. You sure covered a lot on your first day in Athens!!! Thank you for sharing.
Posted by: Eden | October 05, 2009 at 04:04 AM
I'm so glad you have a little terrace to blog and watch the sites... a travel must.
Wear your sunscreen!
Posted by: sandi @ the whistlestop cafe | October 05, 2009 at 07:42 AM
Dear Jerry, Thank you so much for writing while you are in Greece. I LOVE it...every single word and photo...this is the next best thing to actually being there right now. You've made my morning. Have a wonderful day. The food, the food...it looks wonderful. I can only imagine what is coming next.
Posted by: Barb Cabot | October 05, 2009 at 10:10 AM
Sounds delightful so far. I guess you are getting up early to blog. I can just see Paul impatiently standing over your shoulder saying, "Let's GO!"
Keep writing! We all need a vacation!
Photo of the little cheese pies?
Posted by: Palma | October 05, 2009 at 10:55 AM
Hi Jerry, it sounds like you are fully in the flow of living life in Athens. I really loved reading about all the great things you've seen so far and experienced. I am a big fan of the Olympics and loved seeing the arena. All of your photos and your descriptions are so wonderful to read.
Thank you so much for sharing your trip with us. Keep on having fun!
Posted by: Kathy (Trekcapri) | October 05, 2009 at 12:33 PM
I'm so glad you're enjoying yourselves. Glad and jealous.(smile) thanks for going to all the trouble to shre with us.
Posted by: Kendall | October 05, 2009 at 12:38 PM
Thank you, Jerry, for letting us share your Greek adventures.
Keep those posts coming!
Posted by: nancyhol | October 05, 2009 at 12:41 PM
Love reading this! Thank you for taking us along in your adventure.
Posted by: María I. | October 05, 2009 at 12:50 PM
You are so good to share your holiday with us all!!
Am really enjoying your story, and glad you are enjoying Greece!
Shelagh (SJ)
Posted by: Shelagh (SJ) | October 05, 2009 at 02:01 PM
Jerry, you and Paul must have been exhausted -- what an interesting day! I love the photos -- the Parliament building really does look like more like a Bavarian palace than anything else. And 400 pleats in the guards' skirts is amazing, that's certainly one way to remember national history!
Cheese pies sound so good, the food must be fantastic.
It sounds like a week in Athens won't be nearly enough time!
Posted by: sandrac | October 05, 2009 at 05:35 PM
It has been a wonderful start to our relaxing vacation in Athens. I know if I only had a day in the city I'd likely have a different perspective.
Sandi - the sunscreen is in the bag every day now!
It is amazing how strong the sun is at noon. We'll likely notice it today at the acropolis.
Palma - I shall do more research on the cheese pies just for you!Take more pics too.
Sandra - there is a part of me that is already thinking we need more time here!
I think it might be time to go and wake Paul up . . .
Posted by: JDeQ | October 06, 2009 at 01:38 AM
Great read and wonderful photos! The photo of the Tomb of the Unknown Warrior and the two soldiers is my favorite. Interesting story about the pleats. Looks like you had a very busy day. Is Athens difficult to navigate (for someone like me that constantly is lost?)
Posted by: girasoli | October 06, 2009 at 04:34 AM
Sounds like an absolutely heavenly day. Congrats on not getting lost...I mean, what a bit of good luck that it just so happened you didn't get lost as could easily happen! You make Athens come alive for us, thank you :)
Posted by: Anne | October 06, 2009 at 09:17 PM
Girasoli - I wouldn't say that it is easy. Imagine a rabbit warren of streets, some of the small ones not named, some with English (the main ones) others with just Greek. Happily we're not far off fo the main 'drag' so it isn't a challenge.
Anne - there were a few times I was worried! LOL
Posted by: JDeQ | October 07, 2009 at 12:06 AM