A Life, Lived: Venison with Morel Sauce and Ramps

April 19, 2010

Venison with Morel Sauce and Ramps

I had mentioned last week that I picked up some morel mushrooms and ramps last Friday. I didn't know what I wanted them for but since their appearance int eh shops is so fleeting I grabbed them immediately. Not unlike the psychosis the overtakers shoppers who see an amazing deal on an item they don't need. reason is tossed aside and you grab what you can!

Which is what I did. There would be time enough to figure out what to do later.

After putting everything away I turned to the largest cookbook on the planet - the internet - to find a recipe that might combine these two spring beauties. I found many risotto and pasta recipes but I was craving something more. Then I found this recipe for venison with morel mushroom sauce and thought that the ramps would pair brilliantly with it.

The website said:

Morel mushrooms and venison, or antelope, or bison, or even the common steak, are a marriage far more successful than most pairings between mushrooms and meat — which can often compete with one another. This dish is simple, deep and delicious. But don’t skimp on the morels, or the quality of any ingredient: You — and your guests — will notice.

No fear. I wasn't going to skimp. No, not at all.

I had venison in the freezer - courtesy of a colleague from the office who comes from a big clan of hunters and gatherers. I had morels. I had ramps. I was set! The recipe wasn't a perfect fit so I made some modifications and I was ready to go.

This became dinner on Saturday and it was brilliant. The site didn't lie - venison and the morel mushroom sauce paired brilliantly. Add the sauteed ramps as a vegetable and you couldn't ask for a happier taste of spring!

Venison with Morel Sauce and Ramps

4 venison medallions, cut 3/4 to 1 inch thick
Salt and fresh ground pepper
Unsalted butter
2 oz fresh morel mushrooms, cut in half lengthwise
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
8 - 12 large ramps, cleaned and trimmed
1 tablespoon flour
A handful of dried morels, about 1/4 cup, soaked in water for several hours
1 cup beef stock
1/2 cup port wine (something you would drink)
Salt to taste

In a small saucepan, reduce the stock and the water you soaked the morels in over high heat until you are left with about 1/2 cup of liquid. Turn off the heat and set aside.

Take the venison out of the fridge and salt it liberally. Let it rest at room temperature for about 20 minutes.

Heat a pan over high heat for 2-4 minutes. Turn the heat down to medium-high and place the fresh morels down on the pan to heat. Sear on both sides until they brown a little. Do not let them burn. Remove and set aside.

Grill the venison to your liking (our venison was grilled medium-rare). When grilled remove from the BBQ and place on a platter. Cover with time foil and allow to rest.

Add the rest of the butter to the frying pan and let it melt over medium heat. Saute the ramps until they are tender crisp.

Add the flour and stir to combine to make a roux. Cook this for 2 minutes.

Add the port wine and stir to combine. It will thicken immediately, and if it turns to a paste add the morel water-stock mix you reduced in step one. If it does not turn into a paste, let the port boil a minute, then add the stock. Add the rehydrated morels.

Once the morels are heated through, lay down a pool of the sauce on the plates, then top with venison. Arrange the rehydrated morels around the meat, and top each steak with the fresh morels. Arrange the sauteed ramps alongside.

Grind black pepper over all and serve at once.