A Life, Lived: Travel Tuesday - Abbey of Sant'Antimo

November 08, 2011

Travel Tuesday - Abbey of Sant'Antimo

The Abbey of Sant'Antimo, one of the most beautiful Romanesque churches in Italy, is located only 9 km from Montalcino.

According to tradition, in 781 Charlemagne was returning from Rome along the via Francigena. While camped near Monte Amiata, many in his court and army were struck down by plague. During the night, an angel appeared to the Emperor in dream and recommended that he pick a particular grass, dry it and then make an infusion with some wine and have it drunk by the soldiers. He did this and the army was cured. The grass is known to this day as "Carolina". In return for an end to this scourge, the Emperor promised to found the abbey.

Inside the church a quiet silence circulates among walls and almost translucent alabaster columns. The darkness is barely lit by shafts of light that enter the narrow windows . . . the odd bird flits about. The extraordinary capitals sculpted in bas relief unfold like a fan with a rich variety of symbols whose meanings seem lost given the breadth of time since the abbey was built time. Almost at the centre of the church there is a small crypt - a tiny remnant of the original church in the area.

A wooden crucifix from the second half of the 12th century stands behind the altar. Another wooden sculpture from around 1260 representing the 'Madonna with Holy Child in Throne' rests against the right wall. The refined architectural elements recall a decorative richness with very distinctive French influences.

The monks chant prayers at scheduled times during the day. We saw two huge buses leaving just as we arrived - we couldn't believe that the people wouldn't want to stay an extra 20 minutes and hear the monks chant their service. There is something particularly beautiful about sitting in the quiet church, the white-robed monks silently file in, to take their places. When they start chanting their devotion to God the sound fills the space. It was beautiful to hear.