When mom was preparing to leave for her visit to Cape Breton she asked me what I would like. Without thinking I suggested a bottle of whiskey from Glenora Distillery. Glenora is the only single-malt whiskey (you can’t call it “Scotch” unless it’s made in Scotland) distillery in North America. And it was fascinating!
Glenora Distillery was founded here, near Mabou, because of the water. The water comes down off the highlands in a good sized stream but they have to pump it into a holding pond so they have the 2,000 gallons they need to mash the barley. The mash process is much the same as beer, temperature is held at about 160 F and paddles mix the mash while a pump recirculates it so the finer particles aggregate on the bottom to form a filter. The liquid from the mash, now called “wort,” is cooled while it is pumped into 3 different wooden fermentation vessels that look like huge hot tubs…but 12 feet deep.
Once the liquor is in the first still, it is distilled and ends up with an alcohol content of somewhere in the 25 – 30%. It is transferred to the second still where the results are in the 60 – 65% range. This distillate is stored in the “spirit safe.” Traditionally, this was locked and only excise agent (the “revenuer,” in southern moonshine parlance) had a key. He would ascertain the volume and the “proof” which determined the tax the producer owed. In this, more trusting, environment, the distillery reports its own figures.
From there, the liquor is filtered into casks which are sealed, marked with the date and a number, and moved to the warehouse. These casks are stored in uncontrolled conditions for at least 10 years. At the end of 10 years, the casks may be opened and the whiskey bottled. They may also continue in storage, with the mellowing process continuing for up to 19 years. Although some single malts are aged longer, the chance of improving in taste is diminished while the chance of degradation of flavor is increased.
Lots of attention paid to this whiskey.
The bottle she brought me was the 15 year old bottling called 'Battle of the Glen'. It was released in 2009 after the Supreme Court of Canada delivered its judgement dismissing the application of the Scotch Whisky Association for leave to appeal in its unsuccessful campaign to oppose the trade-mark registration of Glen Breton, Glenora's flagship single malt. That decision finally terminated seven years of litigation by the Scotch Whisky Association, involving four levels of appeal in the Trade-marks Opposition Board and the courts.
Colour
A rare dissolution of gold - at break of dawn, the first brushing of the sun upon the snow-covered lakes of the Bras d’Or;
Nose
Subtle, summer-cut applewood, with undertones of Highland honey;
Taste
Taking by surprise, come the waves of malt, powerful, but without overbearing, then a complex orchard of flavour;
Finish
Rich, almost lubricious mouthfeel, The malt withdraws into heat, resolving into the warm caress of an enduring companion, Peat character is very subtle - rather wisps of hardwood smoke, evoking memories of autumn leaves;
Balance
The play between lightness of the whisky and the strength of the malt is a work of harmony…..and mystery….…
A Single Malt worthy of the campaign commemorated by this Special Edition.
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