Towers, Shopping, Food, and Art

I'm not sure I mentioned this but the genesis for this trip was my up-coming 50th birthday. Three of my good friends are all turning 50 about the same time. We all decided we'd celebrate with a bit of a trip. . . . or a LOT of a trip in my case. For Nancy's birthday last year we went to Vermont. For my birthday we'll be in Italy.

Last year in Vermont Nancy wanted to show she still had vitality on the day she turned 50 so we climbed a mountain. A few months ago the discussion all turned to what we'd do to show we were still able and active for MY 50th. Originally I suggested climbing the dome of the Duomo but the claustrophobic nature of the climb through the walls nixed that. Then I thought about the Campanile di Giotto.

The bell tower of Santa Maria del Fiore was begun by Giotto in 1334, carried on after his death by Andrea Pisano, and finished in 1359 by Francesco Talenti, who created the large windows at the upper levels. The sculptural decoration of the tower is extremely rich: 56 relief carvings in two registers, and 16 life-size statues in the niches, all by Florentine masters of the l4th and l5th century (among whom Andrea Pisano, Donatello, Luca Della Robbia).

Yesterday we set out bright and early to climb those 414 steps before the hordes from the cruise ships arrived. Shockingly it wasn't as bad as I had expected. Of course young things bounded up the steps like gazelles but we were fine with that. We took our time, rested a bit on each of the three window levels where there were terraces with viewing platforms, and finally we reached the uppermost level where we were treated to stunning views.

We popped a wee bottle of prosecco and consumed a bag of chips to mark the occasion, took a gazillion pictures, and just stopped to take in the majesty of Florence.

We were back at the B and B in time for a late breakfast and a refreshing shower before heading out again.

Nancy had set out to find some clothes to wear - Air France has yet to determine the whereabouts of her luggage.

Joanne, Paul, and I headed out to the market to search the leather stalls as well as the food stalls within. It is amazing how much damage to one's wallet one can do within a short hour! Between olive oil, balsamic vinegar, parmigiano cheese, and other assorted food items I quickly sent $300. Paul picked up two bottles of vin santo (it was a 'speical' and the seller was very convincing), some limoncello, and some of those wonderful mostarda for cheeses.

On the way back I bought a leather belt. The stall owner gave me one to try but it would not encircle my waist. He said 'mamma mia' and rushed inside to the shop to see if he had larger sizes within. He did and I am the proud owner of a bright purple belt.

Joanne wanted to go back to the art market by Pallazo Strozzi, so Paul and I took all of the food purchases back the B and B.

We had a busy afternoon planned (well, busy because I had messed up on dates and times and booked is into the Accademia Museum at 1:30 and the Uffizi at 2:00). We arrived early at the Accademia, picked up the tickets that we had reserved on-line, and just walked in. I am sure all of the people waiting in line for entrance were cursing us but they could have gone on line and paid a few extra euros to pre-book as well. :-)

We were suitably awed by the statue of David.

Then we raced to the Uffizi and repeated the process. Our visit to the Uffizi was much longer - the crowds of tour groups being lead through the gallery created bottle necks in front of the art we wanted to see. GRRR

The collection of works in the Uffizi Gallery cannot be compared to any other world collection and is probably the only one to have just masterpieces of exceptional value. It really is one of the greatest collections of art on the planet.

The Gallery is housed in the building built by Cosimo I of Medici and designed by Vasari in 1560. But the collection was started in 1574 when Cosimo's son, Francesco I, transformed the second floor of the Vasarian building into a place 'to walk in with paintings, sculptures and other precious things' and entrusted Buontalenti with the creation of a Tribune where art objects could be exhibited.

Within the gallery are found works by:

• Tuscan Painting. Florentibne Primitives and Trecentists (including Cimabue and Giotto)
• Sienese Trecentists (including Simone Martini)
• Late Gothic period
• First Renaissance (including Paolo Uccello, Beato Angelico)
• Filippo Lippi
• Piero della Francesca
• Pollaiolo
• Botticelli
• Ghirlandaio
• Filippino Lippi
• Verrocchio e bottega
• Signorelli
• Perugino
• First Florentine Cinquecentists (including Michelangelo)
• First Mannerists (including Rosso Fiorentino, Pontormo)
• Second Mannerism (including Bronzino, Vasari)
• Florentine 17th and 18th centuries
• Italian painting from the 14th and 15th centuries – excluding Florence (including Mantenga, Bellini, Carpaccio)
• 16th century Italian Painting – excluding Florence and Venice (including Raffaello, Parmigianino)
• Painting in Venice in the 16th Century (including Lorenzo Lotto, Giorgione, Tiziano, Tintoretto, Veronese)
• Italian Painting in the 17th Century - excluding Florence (including Guido Reni, Caravaggio, Artemisia Gentileschi)
• Italian 18th and 19th century painting (including Guardi, Tiepolo)
• German Painting (including Durer)
• Flemish Painting - XV and XVI century (including van der Weyden, Memling)
• Flemish and Dutch Painting - XVII century (including Rubens, van Dyck, Rembrandt)
• French Painting (including Lorrain, Le Brun)
• Spanish Painting (including de Zurbaran, El Greco, Velazquez, Goya)

Because of this it becomes a bit overwhelming. I think the Uffizi is easiest to take in in small doses.

There were many changes from when we were last there - an entire new floor was opened up, many rooms closed down, and some rooms were not open for you to walk through - you just had to stare around from behind a velvet rope.

At the midway mark we stopped at the cafe, with it's stunning views of Florence, for a mid-day snack and vino. This made it easier to take in the glorious splendour of the treasure within the walls.

Our group split up at the end of our visit - Joanne and Nancy to do some more shopping - Paul and I searched for a good gelato shop and the store that held the purple shoes I had been eyeing for the past three days. Of course we found the gelato but not the shoes. :-(

Luckily I found a pair of nice blue suede shoes so I 'settled' for those. Too bad I had bought that purple belt in the afternoon to wear with the purple shoes I was going to buy that afternoon. Now to match things up I either need to buy a new blue belt or find a pair of purple shoes elsewhere on my travels. Or both.

We met up with our friends on the B and B terrace for some wine. Our plan for the evening was simple - a late dinner, dessert at Cafe Rivoire, and wander back to the B and B for sleep. Happily it played out exactly as we had hoped.

Florence really is a stunning city and becomes even more stunning after the crowds leave at night. Nonetheless we are looking forward to heading to Montisi where things are a little less crowded and busy than they were in Florence today.

Comments

[Michele Harrison]

Great photos as usual. Love the shoes; especially the brilliant blue colour . I hope you get to wear them often at home too. The shoes will surely add some pizazz to an early morning GO Train commute.

[Susie L]

OMG, I am seriously lusting after those shoes! They are truly gorgeous. What a great trip you are having so far, with the exception of the missing suitcase. :(

[JDeQ]

They are brilliant shoes. now if only I had something equally brilliant to wear with them! LOL