A Life, Lived

Peeps Out

It's that time of year when people have access to many different types of multi-coloured peeps. You have a choice - eat them and go into a diabetic coma or . . .

And That's a Wrap.

How is it possible?

I know it was a short trip and all but it seems to have just whisked by.

I know that I did a lot - for example, in the past week I have added close to 100,000 steps on m Fitbit. That is some sort of record.

I've got lots to say but I have to pack and get some sleep (daylight savings time starts in Italy tonight - year, an hour less sleep before a happy travel day) so I am going to close with some random shots from the week.

 

Avert Your Gaze

One of my favourite places to visit in Rome is the Fontana delle Tartarughe or Turtle Fountain. Located in Piazza Mattei on the edge of the ancient Jewish Ghetto this area has an atmosphere of peace and quiet which is increasingly rare in a busy metropolis like Rome. In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries this area was totally dominated by the wealthy and powerful Mattei family. The Matteis controlled the traffic on the left bank of the Tiber overlooking the Tiber Island and beyond, using the capable Jewish workforce from the local area, to whom they guaranteed protection.

There is a legend behind the fountain. As there is with so many places in Rome.

This popular Roman legend claims that Duke Muzio Mattei, ruined by gambling, ordered the fountain removed from its original site to the middle of the piazza overnight in order to win the trust of the wealthy father of a woman he wished to marry. The next morning he opened the window of his palazzo and showed his future father in law the fountain. The father was impressed and allowed the marriage to go ahead, and the Duke, to remember the event, had the window overlooking the fountain closed up.

The story is probably only a legend; sceptics note that it would have been very difficult to move such a complex fountain in the dark without making any noise in a single night. According to historians such as Maurizia Tazertes the fountain was built over a long period between 1581 and 1588, and the Palazzo Mattei di Giove, the main residence of the Mattei, was not completed until 1616.

Defenders of the legend point out that the Palazzo Giacomo Mattei, the earlier residence of the Mattei family, which stands directly in front of the fountain, was built in the early 16th century, before the fountain was built, and thus the legend could be true.

What is the truth?

To this day however, if you look up at the Palazzo overlooking the fountain, you will notice that two of the windows are bricked in . . .

The original fountain design called for four bronze dolphins on the upper Basin, supported by the upraised hands of the four young men. However the fountain with plagued with low water pressure which necessitated the removal of the four dolphins. As a result, the upraised hands of the statues seemed to have no purpose.

Probably to correct this problem and balance the composition, the four turtles around the edge of the basin were added during a restoration of the fountain between 1658 and 1659 ordered by Pope Alexander VII. They are usually attributed either to Gian Lorenzo Bernini or Andrea Sacchi. The date of the restoration is recorded on four scrolls of marble around the fountain.

The turtles are very realistic; If their creator was Bernini, he may have used casts of a real turtle, as he did with sculptures he made of other living creatures.

Something Different

Yesterday was a busier day than I had anticipated. I faced the hoards at the Vatican, had an near death taxi experience, napped, visited a bunch of places, shopped, and had some treats.

I can save those reports for later, instead I am going to tell a tale.

One of the challenging things about Rome is that there is so much history everywhere. You know that no matter where you go you are walking past battlefields, spaces where leaders - political or religious - schemed, dreamed, won and lost, buried ruins of living spaces where people lived and died. It is every were. In fact, most of us have no clue of the life events that took place where we place every footstep.

This is an example.

This is a house like many others on via del plebiscito. I've walked past it countless times.

In fact, I was hunting for it in order take a picture to accompany this post and struggled to find it.

Do you notice something odd about that one door? It is lower and less grand than the others?

This is the story.

It seems that in the 17th century the Altieri family decided to turn a few of their houses around the Piazza Gesu into a grand home worthy of their status. The building was completed in 1655 and it certainly impressed upon everyone the great importance of this family.

Fast forward 15 years and their status increased dramatically when Emilio Altieri ascended the Papal throne. Now the grand house needed to be grander. There was a need to rush as well since Clement X was already 80 when he was crowned.

As an aside . . . it took 4 months to determine that Clement would be the Pope and when he was selected he refused to accept as he was too old. To this day he is still the oldest person to be selected as Pope.

But back to the Altieri,

Knowing that their time of peak power would be short, they hastily commissioned an extension of their residence. However, something (or someone) stood in the way.

It was normally for wealthy families to buy up or take the buildings next to their home if they wished to expand. In fact, it was a bit of a hazard living close to the wealthy. The Altieri expropriated the neighbouring homes and proceeded to demolish them except for the home of an old woman named Berta.

Berta would not be moved.

Finally the Altieri told her that she would be disposed of as well with her meager house.

Again, Berta would not be moved.

In fact, she declared that she would curse the family. Curses were a serious threat not to be taken lightly in those days. Particularly when a relative was the Pope.

Desperate, the Altieri offered up large sums of money and even the prayers of the Pope.

Nope. Berta was not going anywhere.

Finally they decided to build their grand house around her small residence. Her house was incorporated within their grand palazzo and they coexisted.

This is a popular story with the Romans - it has a classic theme of the weak and poor triumphing over the rich and powerful.

One doesn't know if it is true any more - oral history being what it is and the passage of 350 years - but to this day you can clearly see that one part of the building is very different than the rest with even the symmetry being off. The last remaining bits of Berta's house and her triumph over the Altieri.

A Completely Unplanned Day

Today was a beautiful day - the sun came out and I had no plans. I could just wander about and pop into whatever interesting building or alley I saw.

It was also a day that had me have a very slow start to the day - not leaving the apartment until close to 11. In my defense, I had a bunch of work stuff to o or I would have been out the door sooner.

When I was locking the front door to the building I noticed that the 'secret entrance' to Santa Maria spora Minerva was open. OK . . . it isn't a secret entrance but I suspect it is one only used by locals. I thought I'd pop in and see what a difference sunshine makes to the interior of the church.

Look at the difference. Today - a sunny, beautiful day:

Sunday - a dull, grey day.

Apparently I need to plan my church visits according to the light.

My next stop was this rock:

Now before you go down the dark road of thinking I have lost my mind, there is a story here which intrigued me. One of the books I used to do some pre-trip research was a book of unusual things in Rome that most tourists miss. This weathered hunk of marble is one of them. The marble stump has a conspicuous split down one side. Legend has it that Roland, Charlemagne’s chief Paladin, slashed his indestructible sword Durendal against it while fending off a group of Roman knights.

Cool.

I soon ended up in the Piazza Colonna which is named because the  column of Marcus Aurelius has stood there since AD 193. The spiral picture relief tells the story of Marcus Aurelius’ Danubian or Marcomannic wars, waged by him from 166 to his death.

Next I wandered along via del Corso towards the Piazza Popolo. I had vague thoughts of visiting Chiesa di Santa Maria del Popolo to see the Caravaggio paintings there. There certainly were a lot of churches along my way. I popped into all of them (well, except for one that was closed - I think it had been consecrated so I guess it doesn't count). I was particularly struck by the notes that people had left on the various statutes and shrines.

The Piazza del Popolo was as impressive as ever.

Sadly, my destination was NOT open. :-(

Oh well, it was a lovely day for a walk.

I turned back and walked along Via di Ripetta.

Along the way I started to get peckish. I passed an interesting looking wine bar/shop/restaurant called Gusto. They had a lunch buffet which seemed plenty popular but I wanted the restaurant. I was taken upstairs to a nice table. It wasn't long before I realized that I was the only non-Italian there.

I started with an amazing appetizer called Carciofo cacio e pepe followed by Maccheroncini all’ Amatriciana. Both were amazing and as I type I am thinking of a return visit.

I was moving a little more slowly after I left the restaurant.

Soon I cut off onto winding streets and alleys as I made my way back towards the apartment.

I found time to do some shopping and pick up some gelato.

All in all it was a fabulous - proof that having no plans at all leads to some interesting discoveries.

Tomorrow, if things go well (and there is a major transit strike in the city) I have a pre-opening tour of the Sistine Chapel. I've been perservating for hours about getting up on time . . . which means I shall be awake every hour on the hour all night. LOL

A Bit of a 'Lazy' Day in Rome

The weather was wet once again yesterday.

I had nothing planned on my agenda. It was a slow start in the morning.

When I got going I had plans to just wander and see where I ended up. I sort of wanted to head towards the Piazza Navona and the neighbourhood where we stayed when we were last in Rome.

When I set out I passed Santa Maria sopra Minerva- Rome's only Gothic church. It is always worth a visit since it is filled to bursting with art treasures.Most would never realize that behind Santa Maria sopra Minerva's massive seventeenth-century facade (currently covered up for restoration work) lies Rome's one and only Gothic church. In fact, once past the basilica's severe classical portal, a visitor encounters a sight completely unique in Rome: soaring  vaults, delicate arches, predominant blues and golds, flickering lights from stained-glass rose windows. Most of the great renaissance artists worked here and are represented in frescoes, sculptures, or paintings.

Because it was so grey outside most of the interior was cloaked in darkness. I will need a return since no amount of euros in those 'put in a euro to see the art for a minute' machines would light the gloom.

I next popped into the Pantheon - crowded as usual.

You can see the puddles of water from the rain falling through the oculus in the ceiling.

I was determined to lose the crowds as I moved on towards the Piazza Navona.

It wasn't long before I was in another church - San Luigi dei Francesi. This is the church dedicated to the french citizens of Rome. Here in the Contarelli Chapel are three amazing paintings of scenes from the life of St Matthew, which have hung here for more than 400 years. Painted by Caravaggio these painting shocked the citizens of the day and the still impress with their power.

Again - poor lighting.

SIGH

Soon I was in the Piazza Navona itself. The last time we were in Rome it was full of crowds for the Christmas Market. This time there were a few pockets of tourists but it wasn't outrageous.

You can see that the sun was trying to break through the crowds (although never successfully).

 

I got a kick out of this group of workers. They were doing something with a drain next to a smaller fountain./p>

The entire time I watched I never saw any actual work being done.

The large church overlooking the piazza, Sant’Agnese in Agone, is always a good spot to sit and contemplate the world. Pink and white marble dominate the walls, keeping everything light. No dark Carvaggio-esque paintings here! White marble wall engravings are the only artwork, helping to reflect the light. Only when you look up, up, up do you find any paintings, and these still maintain the brightness of the lower half of the church, primarily utilizing soft blues and pinks.

Windows around the base of the dome let in the majority of the light, and the dome itself made me do a double take! The painting inside the dome works as an optical illusion, making your eyes think it goes higher up than it does, extending towards heaven. The very very top of the dome ends in a window, as well, giving more light to this bright, comforting church.

Just what you'd expect for a church dedicated to a young girl who was martyred.

St. Anges was around, as far as we can tell, 12 or 13 years old when she was martyred right on this very spot somewhere around 303-304AD. How do they know that, you ask? Simple: scientists have analyzed her skull, which just happens to be displayed in a chapel next to the main part of the church.

The story of St Agnes is an interesting one.

It all started, of course, with a boy.  The son of a Prefect of Rome, to be exact, who became infatuated with young Agnes. Living up to her name (in Greek Agnes meas “pure, chaste”), Agnes rejected his advances proclaiming her chastity represented her devotion to God.  The spoiled son didn’t take this very well.  To punish Agnes for rejecting him, he had her put on “display”, naked, in the Circus Agonale (present day Piazza Navona), where the prostitutes paraded to sell their services.

This is when her miracles began.  To cover her nakedness and save her modesty, her hair grew in long locks, protecting her from public eyes.  This didn’t keep a man from wanting to buy her, though, and when he died before he had the chance Agnes was accused of being a witch.  To prove her innocence – you already know how well that worked out for her – she said that an angel in white was protecting her.  To convince everyone of this she brought the man back to life with a prayer to said angel.  Probably not the best way to prove you’re not a witch…

…the Romans didn’t think so, either.  They threw her onto a fire to burn her alive, but the flames miraculously went out, saving her.  They finally decided to take a more direct approach and pierced her neck with a sword as they would a lamb being slaughtered.  This is why St. Agnes always appears in artwork with a lamb in her arms or at her feet.

As I kept on my journey I was in more familiar territory - this is the neighbourhood where we stayed for a couple of weeks in 2014. I did some shopping and found my favourite gelato shop.

It had moved locations a bit but the gelato was every bit as good as I remembered - this was half  sage and raspberry and half rosemary, lemon and honey. MMMMM

The restaurant where I wanted lunch was close to the Pantheon so I headed back. I discovered that i had half an hour to kill because it did not open until 12:30.

Where to kill 45 minutes?

Sant'Eustachio il Caffè, one of my favourite coffee shops in Rome.

Lunch was at Armando Al Pantheon. I was one of the few without reservations that they sat. While the food was amazing I confess that I did not care for the attitude of the servers. Not one bit. It was one of the few times where I have not left a gratuity.

The fact that I worked as a server for many years means that is serious stuff. :-)

Based upon the service alone I wouldn't go back. I am sure that there are plenty of other restaurants in Rome where I can enjoy good food but not be treated like crap.

I was uncomfortably full at this point which meant one thing - siesta.

When I finally woke up it was getting late but not late enough that there wasn't time for one more adventure. I set out in the wind and rain to the wedding cake (AKA the Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II) where there was an exhibit of Monet's paintings. Frankly, after all of the religious art I have see so far I was due for something a bit more modern.

This exhibit is made up of more than 60 of Monet’s most beloved pieces from his Giverny household - these were the pictures that he kept for himself (well, except for one painting that was sold but returned after the purchaser determined it to be 'unfinished').

The exhibition presents a the many shades of Monet’s work. Dimmed lights that take you from one picture to the other – interwined with animated projections of Monet’s most famous artworks – guide the way.

The entire artistic journey of the Impressionist master is taken into account. From his very first caricatures with which he earned his first money, to the rural and urban landscapes of his many dwellings, the whole exhibition is impressive.

What a great way to spend some time on a wet evening!

By the time I had walked back to the apartment I was soaked. Yes the rain had stopped but the darkness made it rather difficult to avoid puddles or being splashed by speeding cars.

I finally cooked a proper meal - plin ravioli with a brown butter and herb sauce followed by fried beef cutlets and salad.

Paul asked when I had for dinner, I sent him the pics, he then asked what restaurant I had gone to. I think that was a compliment. :-)

Speaking of Paul - we chatted on facetime for a bit and then I crashed.

It hadn't seemed like a busy day but the mere act of writing it out suggests that perhaps it might have been.

An Exhausting but Invigorating Day in Rome

I likely could call the first part of the day 'death by walking tour' but I'll try to be a wee bit more positive.

The weather reports were calling for some pretty wet weather yesterday - not what you want to hear when you have a walking tour scheduled.

When I got up the sky was blue and I thought - woo hoo, the reports were wrong.

When I finished breakfast the rain was teeming down and I thought - perhaps I should cancel.

After I finished my shower the rain had let up and I thought - I can do this.

It was a bit drizzly when I left but nothing that made me think I should haul my umbrella up. I was about 10 minutes from my destination and the skies opened up. I didn't get my umbrella pit immediately and wouldn't you know within seconds I was surrounded by those guys selling umbrellas. Waving them off I got my own brolly out and finished my trek.

When I reached the tour meeting point it turned out that I would be the only person on the tour. A private tour for no extra charge - happy Jerry.

There was some time before we headed out so I sat and had a coffee and cornetta.

Normally I'd stand at the bar but for some reason I sat down and ordered from a table. If you ever wanted proof of the 'table price premium' in Italy this experience was it. My bill came to 9 euro. Ordering at the bar it might have been 3.

Oh well, did I say I scored a private tour for no extra charge? :-)

My guide's name was Dario. He was a bit of a dreamer - always wanted to be an archeologist from a young age but his parents convinced him to go in a different direction so he could support a family. He did that but always felt the pull. Years passed and he quit his job, went back to school, and got a degree in archeology and at history. He was a great and personable guide, which was good since it was just he and I. Had he been a pill it would have made for  along morning.

We had a special entrance through the gladiators gate.

This was an amazing way to enter the structure.

The Colosseum is probably the most impressive building of the Roman Empire. Dario reminded me that the proper name is  the Flavian Amphitheater - the Colosseum name came from the giant statue to Nero that stood nearby. It was built on top of Nero's famous lake and it was the largest building of the era. With the rain it had turned to a bit of a lake inside (later we heard that the lower art of the structure was closed due to flooding).

Dario did a fabulous job of bringing the ruins to 'life' with words and images from a book he had packed away in his backpack. Even though I had toured the ampitheatre 12 years ago this was a very different experience (for one, there was no mom to lose. LOL)

The elliptical building is immense, measuring 188m by 156m and reaching a height of more than 48 meters (159 ft). The magnificent structure was clad in marble - although all of this was removed for the construction of St. Peter's Basilica and the Palazzo Farnese.

Emperors used the Colosseum to entertain the public with free games. Those games were a symbol of prestige and power and they were a way for an emperor to increase his popularity.

Our next stop was the Forum. Along the way we saw temporary stands being set up. Dario explained that the Pope preaches here on Good Friday and the crowds are so large that this now takes place outside of the Colosseum.

Before we could get into the Forum we had to go through a security check. Another thing I don't remember from our last visit. There were no guards milling about with large guns nor security checks in 2006. The presence of armed guards is something that really is hitting me on this trip - they are at all major sites.

The Roman Forum was the pulsing heart of Rome, the city’s main piazza where citizens of every social level met to exchange opinions, do business, buy in the markets and renew their strength over a tasty dish and a cup of good wine.

The Roman Forum is situated in the area between Piazza Venezia and the Colosseum is one of the most important archaeological sites in the world. Three thousand years ago, this valley between Campidoglio and the Quirinal, which was to become the future social and political centre of one of the greatest empires of ancient times, was submerged in marshland.

With the rain you could see that it still had a tendency to be marshy. :-)

In the area around the Forum, the city was also home to markets, shops and taverns. You could also find the typical Termopolia, which were the ancient equivalent of today's fast food restaurants. In short, the Forum was the heart and soul of city life. It was in Caesar's time, when Rome has become the capital of a vast empire, that the Forum became a place for celebrations and in the Imperial era it was the symbol of the Empire.

Soon it was time to climb. Our stop was at the top of the Palatine Hill - the hill that gave rise to the English word “palace”, the Italian “palazzo” and the French “palais”. Guess what was located at the top of the hill?

Without a guide, it can be difficult to make sense of the ruins of the Palatine. However, while some of the remains are little more than a pile of bricks, other buildings have been surprisingly well-preserved. These are the must-see sights that Dario pointed out on the Palatine:

The Flavian Palace (also known as the Domus Flavia or the Domus Augustana). This enormous palace was built during the reign of the emperor Domitian in 92 AD, and was later expanded by Septimius Severus. Although you can get close-up to the ruins on the Palatine, make sure you check out the view from the Circus Maximus too – when you’re standing below the Palatine, you really get a sense of the sheer size of the palace.

The Stadium of Domitian. There’s been some debate about the exact function of this building, as while it resembles a hippodrome, it may have been the emperor’s private garden. Whatever its purpose, this impressive construction was certainly part of the imperial palace.

Hmmm - notice how dark that sky suddenly turned?

Normally this tour would have ended on the Palatine with a tour of the house of Cesar Augustus located deep underground however it has been closed for restoration. Instead, we walked down from the Palatine, crossed the street, and walked up the hill nearby - the Celio Hill. There we saw the equally impressive Case Romane (Roman houses) under the  church of SS Giovanni e Paolo.

Traditionally the church of SS Giovanni e Paolo stands on the site of the dwelling of the two saints, John and Paul, who were Roman military officers put to death for their Christian faith. Later the property is believed to have belonged to a Christian senator called Pammachius, who converted his home into a church.

In the nineteenth century, an enterprising monk excavated underneath the church, and found a series of decorated rooms dating back to the third century. Archaeological investigations have assigned various dates to the remains here; which belong to different stages of the site's development. Once a number of humbler dwellings and shops stood here, before the buildings were incorporated into a more sumptuous villa, whose frescoed walls can still be seen.

Like the more famous Domus Aurea, the rooms here are now underground, and it takes some imagination to imagine the spaces as they were before they were covered by later buildings. The wall-paintings, however, are a vivid reminder of times past.

It was raining heavily when we finished out walk down from the hill. It was the end of the tour so I said good by to Dario and headed on m way. It turns out that it was the end of my energy as well. I was about two blocks from a restaurant that Paul and I have been to a few times and I had hoped to go there for lunch. Then I saw a taxi stand - before you know it I had my exhausted and wet self in the back of a cab and was headed back to the apartment.

I stopped along the way for lunch. This restaurant wasn't great but it was close to the apartment and at that point dog food would have been great! I had a half bottle of white wine, pasta carbonara, and a salad.

When I got back to the apartment I quickly changed out of my wet clothing and fell into a deep sleep.

I woke up just after 4:00 and had to get a move on because I had a wine tasting at Vinoroma at 6:00. I've done three tastings with Hande over the years and this one was the best yet. It was a small group - me and 4 friends from Hawaii. We tasted five wines - a sparkler, a white wine, a orange wine, a red wine, and a dessert wine. Each wine was paired with cured meats, cheese, olives, or partially sun dried tomatoes (I say partially because they weren't dried to the leather like consistency of typical sun dried tomatoes). It was a fabulous experience - the wines, food, and company all were top notch. Of course, it was great to catch up with Hande as well.

It must have been close to 10:00 when I left the studio. I decided to walk home to enjoy the monuments and ruins lit up.

Once again, Rome did not disappoint.

I finished the day facetiming with Paul before I fell into bed just before midnight. It had been a full and amazing day in Rome.

VIsiting the Domus Aurea

Ancient Rome has its share of fascinating stories but one of the more intriguing ones is Nero's Golden Palace. Stories about Nero are prone to exaggeration - history being written by those who win in this case those who came after Nero's death. For example - that story about Nero playing his fiddle while Rome burnt? He was not even in the city when the fire destroyed much of it.

Archeological efforts have been able to stabilize much of the park that took root over the top of the palace. More than 2 meters of stone, rubble, soil, and pine trees with massive root systems all caused havoc to the delicate ruins below.

I booked a tour and hoped that it wasn't cancelled because of rain (the site is still prone to flooding when it rains). When I woke up this morning the rain was coming down softly. When I set out for the 30 minute walk to the Palace it was a torrential downpour! ACK There were plenty of joggers out and I figured if they could manage to jog in this weather I could certainly manage a walk in the rain!

Happily the tour was not cancelled and I was able to see this amazing site for myself.

One of the most fascinating features was a tripped virtual reality experience. Sitting down in a large dinning hall you put on a headset and you are be whisked back in time to the lavish rooms of his opulent home. This amazing experience brought the ruins into an entire different perspective.

After the great fire of Rome in 64 AD, Emperor Nero rebuilt his Transitory Palace on the Palatine Hill and added the Pleasure Palace on the Oppian Hill we refer to as the ‘Domus Aurea’, the Golden House. The name came from the gold leaf that covered much of the interior. Fragments of these frescos still remain but the gold leaf is all gone.

The Domus Aurea was created as a Summer Palace, ingeniously constructed mostly underground to keep it cool. The lighting system used skylights and small holes in the domes that sent shafts of illumination into reflective mirror-like surfaces, filling the rooms with light.

The front façade of the Domus Aurea stretched out over 1,200’ long. There were outdoor gardens, indoor grottos, indoor waterfalls and over 300 rooms all designed for entertainment. There were no sleeping rooms.

The ceiling decorations were covered frescos, mosaics and gold leaf. A grotto was dedicated to Ulysses, another room was dedicated to Achilles. The octagonal room had a waterfall. The décor was so wonderful, even the head designer’s name was ‘Fabulus’.

Guests were greeted by a 100′ tall 'idealized' nude bronze statue of Nero.

After Nero’s death, the head of the statue was replace with the head of the Sun god ‘Sol Invictus” with rays of the sun extending 23’ long.

.

It only took 4 years. When Nero first entered in 68 AD, he was quoted to have said, “at last I can finally live like a human being.” However, the ‘human being’ never got to really enjoy it. The anti-Nero conspirators finally got him in June of 68 AD, a very short time after the Pleasure Palace was completed.

The Roman Senate passed a sentence on him of death by beating. His personal Praetorian Guard shifted their allegiance to Galba, who became the next Roman Emperor, although he lasted only 7 months before being assassinated.

Seeing no way out, Nero decided to take his own life. Unfortunately he could not do it. He had the deed done by his aide, Epaphroditos. Supposedly his last words were “what an artist dies in me”. Nero was 31 years old when he died.

After Nero’s death, most of the Domus Aurea treasures were stripped away. The Palace was left empty for 30 years until the Emperor Trajan filled much of it in with dirt and used it as the foundations for his massive Bath Complex on the Oppian Hill. The diagram to the left shows how the foundations of the Domus Aurea (in red) were incorporated into the Baths of Trajan (in gray). The Baths are above the ground level. Nero’s Domus aurea is below.

Thanks to the Emperor Trajan that the Domus Aurea is still here. The dirt and debris that filled the halls actually kept them preserved. You can still see some of the halls filled with the dirt levels from the time of Trajan around 105 AD.

The Domus Aurea was just a fabled memory at the end of the 15^th century when a young Roman boy fell through a hole in the ground of the Oppian Hill and found himself staring at what became known as grotesque figures, named for the grotto like caverns of the remaining space of the vaulted domes not filled with dirt.

Soon after the re-discovery of the Domus Aurea, artists and curious adventurers dug cave holes through the domes of the palace and crawled along the top of the dirt to see the ancient frescos and sign their names to the walls. Pinturicchio’s name is still visibly scratched into one wall. The holes in the ceilings now look like sores or scars on the once magnificent frescos.

In 1999, the Domus was open to the public. It stayed open for less than six years due to safety concerns of the structure falling in on itself. It closed in 2005. In 2010 a 60 square meter section of one of vaults collapsed.

Over the years, problems have developed between the conservation of the Domus and the park that lives upstairs. The tree roots from the massive trees extend over 12’ and embed themselves into the 1^st century concrete domes and the water runoff from heavy rains over the years has destroyed many of the priceless frescos.

Tours can be interrupted during the rainy season from November through March when the Domus gets flooded from the water seepage of the Oppian park. It is fascinating to visit an ancient site while archeologists and historians are working. Over the years the water damage has been pretty bad and archeologists are removing the fresco plaster from the concrete walls and preserving them in one of the Domus Halls with the intention of putting them back in place after the water seepage problem has been worked out. Eventually all the fresco art will be restored but this could take many years.

Traveling to Rome

At the risk of somehow jinxing my return flight home I have to say that my trip across the pond to Rome was one of the easiest ever.

When I got to Toronto m flight was delayed 90 minutes. Annoying, but manageable. When i went to check in I discovered I could use some soon to expire points to upgrade to first. SIGN ME UP!

This meant I got to spend those 90 minutes in the lounge.

There was nothing eventful about the flight. First class food is a far sight better than what those at the other end of the ticket spectrum get fed. Those pods are fabulous and I slept more than I ever have on a flight. In fact, when I arrived in Rome I almost felt rested . . . grimy .  . . but rested.

Being a good Canadian I assisted a group of confused travelers by showing them the correct train to take to the exit, which passport line to get in to, where to find the luggage carousel, and where to find prearranged rides/taxis/the train to Rome.

M ride was waiting, as promised, with my name on a sign. It wasn't less than 60 minutes after the plane had landed that I was racing into the city centre.

I will say that someone - not sure if it city, state, or federal government - needs to do something about repaving the highway from the airport. It was worse than spring in Canada with our post winter potholes.

Luisa was waiting to let me into the apartment. She was LOVELY and very helpful.The apartment itself is fabulous. A beautiful old building on a very quiet dead end street (not sure if that is an appropriate turn of phrase since it ends at a church). The ways are about 2 feet thick, the ceilings 20 feet high, and you can see the massive old wooden beams holding everything together. The bathroom and kitchen are recently renovated and well-stocked with whatever you need to get settled in.

After she left I got settled, showered the travel grime away, and had an unplanned nap.

I guess even though I had slept on the plane I was still tired.

I decided to go out and find a market that a friend here in Rome had told me about.  The market is located down near the Circus Maximus.

Along the way I was walking behind the Palazzo Venezia and discovered that there was a beautiful courtyard in behind the imposing walls you see from the other side. It was open so I popped in to explore. I discovered later that it reopened to the public in 2016 after massive renovations. I discovered a peaceful oasis of calm vegetation, gardens, statues, and frescoes on the outside of the building in the middle of the hustle and bustle that is the Piazza Venezia. The trickling water was from a large fountain in the centre of the garden featuring a sculpture meant to depict Venice herself throwing a gold ring into the sea.

Leaving the peaceful ambiance I continued on my way - which included using a number of crosswalks on busy streets where I practiced my 'staring down drivers' skill. Traffic is supposed to stop for pedestrians in cross walks but rarely does if you just stand and wait. You take a big breath and head out into the crosswalk and hope people remember their responsibilities. Yesterday they seemed to.

When I arrived at the market they appeared to be closing up for the day. ACK I was able to see enough to make me want to go back. The Campagna Amica market is held every weekend morning until mid-afternoon. Here you can stock up on real Italian delights, such as olive oil, wine, jams and preserved veggies like truffles and eggplant that are delicious toppers for pasta or toasted bread. The best thing about this market is that the products are all "zero kilometer," which means they are made locally. As a bonus, heading to this market will show you what the Romans are buying because the main goods here are fresh vegetables, cheeses and dried meats. I picked up some tulips for the apartment, meats, cheeses, and some artichokes.

On the way back to the apartment I realized I was hungry so I stopped for some suppli, and pizza. It was a late lunch after I had put away my purchases, washed down with a couple of glasses of prosecco that Luisa had left to welcome me to Rome.

I was exhausted by this point - a nap was in order.

It was far later than I realized when I woke up. So late that I'd need to rush to the store to buy some other necessary apartment provisions before the store closed. Normally I'd take time and look at everything before I cashed out but there was no time.

The famous Moriondo e Gaiglio chocolate shop was opened when I walked by so I popped in to see what treats the shop considered by many to be the best in Rome had on offer. Oh my. I know there will be a load of treats for Easter coming home with me.

I thought I was in for the evening after I had everything put away. In fact, I had even changed into my 'hanging around the apartment' clothing. I hadn't planned on the sudden realization that I had yet to enjoy some gelato. Out again I went!

I am always amazed at the way Italians embrace the evening . . . families, couples, whatever were out walking about, arm in arm, chatting away and laughing. It is one of the things I find most beautiful about Italy. This is saying something given the beauty that surrounds you in Rome!

I sat at the back of the pantheon to eat my gelato. It wasn't great gelato but I was in Rome so it was great in the moment!

Paul home from work so I called home to see what was happening back in Burlington and to tell him about my adventures.

 

I'm Off!

My flight for Rome leaves tonight at 6:30.

You might have gotten the idea that I am a touch excited about my trip. . . cause I am and I can't hide it!

After our first trip to Italy in in 2006 we have been back 6 times. There I something about the culture that I love. This year marks 4 years since I have been back and I was yearning for a return. When I found a really amazing deal for a flight on Black Friday I knew it was time.

The sad thing is that Paul is not joining me - he didn't think he would get the time off of work. Mind you, he didn't ask but that is another story. While I do enjoy traveling with Paul, I am not afraid to travel on my own.

I have an apartment rented for 8 nights near the Pantheon. In fact, it appears to be on a tiny dead end street which ends at the back of the famous church Santa Maria sopra Minerva. I have been in front and inside the church so it will be interesting to explore a different perspective.

This will be my perspective of the church on this trip:

For this trip I am planning on doing some things that are off of the beaten tourist trek - well not all. If it is unusual and quirky then I will likely seek it out. I have a couple of books to assist me in my quest and they have been interesting reading. :-)

I will get together with our friend Sandra a couple of times. I've booked two tours, a wine tasting, and a dinner activity but other than that my days are free.

arrivederci.