The Basilica of Santissimi Apostoli, the Holy Apostles, is a large church that hosts the bodies of the disciples of Jesus, Philip and James the Less. It was built in the 4th century by Pope Julius I, it was the only Roman church not to be built on the site of a previous ancient building, although building materials came from the Constantine Baths., the original plan was that of the Apostoleion in Constantinople. During the Byzantine era, under Pope Pelagius I and the rule of Narses, it was reconstructed with a greek-cross plan. Adrian I writes to Charlemagne praising this building for its width and its amazing mosaics. In 1348 it was destroyed by an earthquake and only the two sculpted gate lions survive from that building.
The two Renaissance cloisters contain a bas-relief of the Nativity by the school of A.di Cambio.
The interior, divided into three wide naves by big pilasters and matching Corinthian pilaster strips, with three chapels per side, each one roofed by a dome, ends up being splendid for the decorations and frescoes. This was the tomb of Clemente XIV by Canova.
There were stairs heading downwards on either side of the altar. They weren't blocked and since I was already wandering the church when it was supposed to be closed I headed down. There I found a crypt which isn't as old as it appears. Designed to look like an ancient a catacomb even though catacombs were never allowed within the city walls. During this construction in 1879 the remains of the apostles Philip and James were found in an ancient crypt underneath the church. They had rested there for 1200 years.
About 10 years ago we walked by this lovely church, and went in....you have to go into every Italian church , right?!
Anyway, we were almost the only people in there, and a worker invited us up a narrow staircase behind a tiny door, to view some frescoes that they were slowly restoring. We stood on a platform , and saw these amazing frescoes from about two feet away.
I've never forgotten that...it was such a privilege!
Moral: never walk past an open church door in Italy. :)
Posted by: Shelagh Jackson | February 08, 2022 at 10:07 PM
Agreed 100%! Even more so if it is one of the smaller churches - so often they are never open so if you see an open door rush in. It is amazing the treasures that you may find inside.
Posted by: JDeQ | February 09, 2022 at 11:42 AM