A Life, Lived

Travel Tuesdays - Baur B and B

11 years ago a three week trip to Italy with mom and Paul was winding down.

We spent some time at a b and B run by the most amazing people Diana and Mischa.

This photo came up on my Facebook memories. 11 years ago yesterday this was where I was hanging out.

No one wanted to join me at a wine bar in Acqui Terme. I have made my own wine bar at the b and b. I sat in the sun enjoying the sounds of farm equipment, max (the B and B dog) playing with the giant lobster we brought him from Canada, and crescendo of birds.

Magic.

Walk 'til you Drop

I realize that title is not particularly descriptive but it feels appropriate.

We began at Embankment in central London where we boarded the Clipper Thames, one of London's riverboats, with our guide Phillipa. Paul and I were the only people on the tour so we got a private tour for the price of a group tour . . . plus we had the guide's undivided attention.

From there we traveled east along the Thames. Our journey took us through the heart of London, and from our vantage point royal palaces and modern government buildings illuminated the River's role as a power base, while old warehouses and wharves illustrated the working river, and bridges told the story of the areas previously divided by the River. Along the way Phillipa described the role of the river, especially as it pertains to Britain's relationship with the sea.

Normally we would have gotten off the boat at Greenwich but Phillipa suggested an alternative. We got off at the next stop and took the Emirates Airline - a giant cable car which spans the river. Located by the O2 stadium, the cable car whisks you across the river and back again. It was an amazing vantage point seeing London spread out in every direction.

From there we got back on the tube to Canary Wharf. We were right across from Greenwich at this point. You could really see the entire royal site there and have a sense of how the construction was perfectly orientated so that the Queen's House had a completely unobstructed view of the water. We were at the north end terminus of the tunnel under the river so down, down, down we went and after walking for about 750 m we came up on the other side of a river (Using the lift, thank goodness).

In Greenwich, we started by looking at the world famous ship and last surviving tea clipper, the Cutty Sark. From here, we  moved on to other relevant sites including the Old Royal Naval Academy, where we discussed the history of the site, from its origins as a royal palace favored by the Tudors and birthplace of Henry VIII, Mary I, and Elizabeth I, through its complete Baroque rebuilding during the Restoration, to its transformation into the Royal Naval Hospital, and, finally, into a college under the supervision of Sir Christopher Wren and Nicholas Hawksmoor.

Eventually we emerged out into Greenwich Park, with scenic views of the first Palladian House in Britain, the Queen’s House, and the National Maritime Museum. Beyond the perfectly manicured lawns of the Park, a path through the trees lead us to a small hill (small but STEEP) on which the Royal Observatory and Flamsteed House are built. Once we reached the top the hill, we were presented with a wonderful view of London, both old and new, spread out before us with the River Thames cutting a silver ribbon through the city, separating the historic site of Greenwich from the modern buildings of Olympic Park.

The Royal Observatory was founded by Charles II in 1675 and by international agreement, each new day, year, and millennium starts there. This alone should be enough to pay this place a visit, but if not, the fascinating history of how longitude at sea was determined should do the trick, and all the key elements of that story can be found here. In 1714 the Board of Longitude was set up. A prize of £20,000 was offered for the answer (= £2m today) to find longitude at sea. The prize would be awarded if timekeeping remained accurate within 2 minutes on a journey across the Atlantic. The winner was a clockmaker, John Harrison. All the prototypes of his clocks are visible in the Observatory in Greenwich.

At the top of the observatory roof is a large red ball - every day it rises exactly at 1:00 PM. Our visit was perfectly timed, we watched the ball rise at 1:00 and fall back down again.

The Prime Meridian - the line of longitude that separates the Western and Eastern hemispheres runs through the site. Paul and I took the obligatory pic of us standing with our feet on either side of the line.

By the end of the walk we had a deeper understanding of the important role that the River Thames has played in British naval and mercantile history. We will also came away with an appreciation of London as a city that constantly changes, but that also prioritizes the preservation of its history—something we will saw first-hand in Greenwich, a microcosm of the unique dualities that exist in London.

We were feeling rather peckish at this point (and exhausted I must point out). Phillipa was heading back into the city and she suggested we tag along and she would leave us at the Borough Market where we could get something to eat. The market is rich with history, but it remains relevant to the lives of Londoners. As London’s oldest food market, it has been serving the people of Southwark for 1,000 years, and that extraordinary heritage is an important part of its appeal.

First and foremost, though, it is a source of genuinely exceptional produce. Many of the Market’s stallholders are themselves producers: the farmer who reared the animal, the fisherman who caught the fish, the baker who baked the bread. Other traders have built their reputations on seeking out small-scale artisan producers and bringing their wares to Borough. Together, the Market’s stalls, shops and restaurants reflect London’s status as a truly global city, with traditional British produce sitting alongside regional specialties from around the world.

As we were entering the market we were offered a sample of duck confit by a vendor - imagine a vendor who specializes in that? It was fabulous. The stall offered a variety of duck confit sandwiches and we decided upon the duck confit wrap. It was a sizeable wrap stuffed with shredded duck, greens, onion confit, and a lively yet sweetly homely honey mustard sauce and I think it just might be the best thing I have eaten in London so far!

We also found Ginger Pig which is supposed to make the best sausage rolls and Scotch Eggs in London. I ordered two sausage rolls and they asked if we wanted the regular own or the one with Stilton. I immediately said 'one of each' and was answered with a smile . . . it clearly was the right answer!

This market sure makes the food offered at the St Lawrence market back home in Toronto look sad.

We bought provisions for dinner (wild boar tortellini, sugo, focaccia, and some dessert) and headed back to the apartment.

I had walked more than 15,000 steps and was exhausted. It was definitely time for a nap.

After I woke up we decided to head out to a wine bar a friend had suggested. When we found it it was packed so we just bought a bottle of wine and headed out. We decided to pop into a rum shop called Limin. In Trinidad ‘liming’ is about getting together with friends at home, the beach, river, street corner or rum shop. We ordered a couple of rum cocktails and a snack - friend savoury dough balls that were served with tamarind sauce. Delicious.

Of course, the rum was double proof and the drinks generous. By the time we left there was no way we were cooking dinner. :-)

We crossed Commercial street and stopped by Poppies Fish and Chips - winner of the best fish and chips in the UK award. Dinner was fabulous!

After we ate we walked back to the apartment. Along the way we checked out the many bars and restaurants on the street - honestly, you could be here for two weeks and eat at a different spot every day and not run out of choices.

Our First Day in London

OK, technically it wasn't our first day in London but we didn't do much on arrival day other than survive and explore our neighbourhood.

Yesterday we spread a bit further afield.

Our first need (after coffee and showers) was breakfast. Apparently London enjoys a more leisurely start to the day on Sunday as most restaurants did not open until 10 and we were hungry. We decided to just head out to out first stop and see what we found on our way. It turns out that while there weren't many restaurants there were plenty of cafes where we could grab a snack.

We loaded the Oyster cards that one of my colleagues at the office had loaned to us and headed off on the tube.

Our first stop was the Museum of London. This is a free museum that documents the history of the UK's capital city from prehistoric to modern times. The museum also includes some new galleries - the Galleries of Modern London, that focus on the lives people lead from 1666 to the present. There was also a special display the shows how the Olympic Cauldron was made for the 2012 London Olympics.

We spent close to 3 hours wandering around the museum - a great spot to spend a morning.

Our lunch reservations were for 1 PM so we headed to Barbecoa. This is celebrity chef Jamie Oliver's tribute to fire and smoke. They featured a special Sunday lunch - a traditional English roast with all you can eat Yorkshire puddings, coal roasted potatoes, roasted cabbage, and roasted carrots. You were able to select one appetizer, one main, and dessert. You could also order all you can drink wine.

Our table had an incredible view of St. Paul's Cathedral - I would have sat there for three hours just looking out of the window.

Lunch was amazing.

After lunch we decided to wander around St. Paul's Cathedral for a bit. As we were doing this it started to get a bit drizzly. We heard some thunder and saw lightning. We sought shelter in one of those old red iconic telephone booths to the right of the Cathedral. There was room for both Paul and Jerry in there but no room for the others who also had the same great idea when it started to hail.

After the cloud had passed we hopped on the tube back to the Agate station, followed by a short walk back to the apartment.

The all-you can drink wine hit me and a nap was required!

Later we lounged around and went out to a restaurant near the apartment that is known for its hand-pulled Asian noodles and dumplings. Delicious!

54 Looks Awesome

Yesterday started in Kelowna and ended up in the heart of the Naramata Bench.

Paul walked to Starbucks so I wouldn't have to start my birthday with hotel coffee.

We breakfasted on chocolate croissants that Val had given us and fruit from our 'customer of the day' platter left for us by the hotel.

Our plan was to purchase some things in Kelowna to bring to the house, then head to Penticton where they had a large farmer's market. Things went  according to plan. The struggle was in not having a cooker - there was so much amazing but perishable stuff that we saw! I would have loved to purchase some of the fresh, wild caught salmon but didn't want it sitting in the hot car all day.

Today, in first world problems. . .

The Penticton market was HUGE. There were crowds of people and parking was a challenge - particularly when you didn't really know were you were going and many streets were blocked off for the market. Nonetheless, we persisted and managed to score a great spot. The market was fabulous with lots of amazing things to look at and buy. We bought plenty of veggies and fruit for the house.

We also bought a sausage on a bun - organic, humanely raised pork, on organic, fresh-baked buns.

I could get used to this!

Once we left the market we decided to go to Naramata to explore a bit.

The journey to Naramata began with sinuous curves in the road. We made our way along the Naramata Bench, meandering through vineyards and orchards, past wineries, bed and breakfasts, and art studios while bathed in sun and overlooking shimmering Okanagan Lake.

Founded in 1907 by John Moore Robinson as a prime agricultural area. He advertised and sold parcels of land to people from other parts of Canada as well as the British Isles. At the time Naramata became known as a cultural centre. People from across the Okanagan would arrive by boat for concerts, plays, operas, regattas- and as Robinson and his wife were spiritualists-seances. In fact, it is said the name of the village came about during one.

There are still many fruit orchards in Naramata. The varieties include peach, plum, pear, cherry, apricot and apple. Naramata is more known now, however, as a top wine-producing region in the country and its wineries have begun to attract international acclaim. The decline in the relative economic importance of fruit growing has occurred but the impressive landscape still abounds with orchards.

We stopped at a beach and relaxed there for a bit.

I could get used to this.

There was a tiny coffee shop/restaurant in the village where we decided to stop for lunch. The food was surprisingly good. I had a Moroccan chicken bowl which was full of flavour.

After lunch we decided to head to the house to see if we could drop things off.

What a view!

The rest of the afternoon was taken up with getting settled, heading back into Penticton for some groceries, and resting up for my birthday dinner.

We had made reservations at the Hillside winery bistro for dinner. We planned our arrival so that we would have some time to taste wines before dinner. The wines we tasted were pretty delicious. We bought three bottles and headed up to the bistro.

The view from our table was stunning.

The menu items are designed to be shared. We started off with a local brie cheese served with shallot crackers and apricot honey and fish tacos that were served with cabbage slaw and jalapeno aioli.

Both were delicious - a great start to the meal.

For our mains I ordered a flat iron steak served with sauteed mushrooms, peppercorn sauce and Tiger blue cheese. Paul ordered lemon ricotta cavatelli with hazelnut pesto.

It was an amazing meal to top off an amazing day.

Back at the house we sat outside and watched the sun set over the lake.

After the sun had ducked behind the mountains on the other side of the lake it got quite buggy. It was time to head inside and enjoy birthday cupcakes and open gifts.

All in all, 54 was starting off fabulously!

The Post

We finally got around to seeing The Post on the weekend. it was everything I expected it to be - a smart, well-acted, adult film. What I was not expecting was the pointed references to the current era in American politics. Leaders lying to the people, the media trying to tell the world about the lies, the leaders attempting to silence the press. Check, check, check.

Some have criticized the movie. The Post was scooped by The New York Times when that paper obtained the lengthy government report that showed successive U.S. administrations had known Vietnam was an unwinnable war. But after a court order halted the Times's publication, the Post got hold of its own copy and made the risky decision to publish, too. The movie could have been called The Times and focused on their efforts to give voice to the truth against incredible odds.

The Post is not just a retelling of the Pentagon papers. It is the story of Kay Graham, the widowed socialite plonked into the publisher's chair by her husband's suicide. It is the story of the unraveling of an era where members of the Post staff were friends with the powerful politicians of the day and often refrained from publishing information that might prove embarrassing to their friends.

Meryl Streep as Kay Graham enjoys some particularly sharp moments as Graham's sheltered perspectives and naive faith in American leaders crumble in the face of the Pentagon Papers' revelations and she, in turn, finds her power. The scene where she enjoys her publish-and-be-damned moment is particularly delightful as the actress prolongs her indecision as long as she possibly can before suddenly giving way. You see her gain confidence in the role she didn't want but came to relish. In so doing she became a powerful role model for countless women.

In 2018, we live in a time where the President of the United States has been whining about “fake news”  and American trust in news sources has been whittled away to where only 27% of Americans say they have a great deal of trust in newspapers. Where The Post really shines is in showing the nitty-gritty of journalism, although doing it within a compressed timeline and narrative that lends itself to exhilarating speeches, ticking clocks, and cutting out the boring parts like people not returning phone calls and other countless dead ends. But it’s a film that shows in the journalism profession, everyone takes their work seriously and no one is blind to the stakes of any story. It’s a searing rebuttal against an imagined “agenda” by showing the real work that goes into serious journalism.

Steven Spielberg’s movie goes further to show the rampant misogyny surrounding Graham. The journalism element may speak to our present, but the misogyny is clearly born out of the 2016 election and how sexism factored into the treatment of Hillary Clinton. Although Graham isn’t a Clintonian figure, there’s no missing that she’s a woman in a job that’s traditionally given to men and there’s no shortage of men trying to undercut her. While the inequality women have faced is nothing new, we’ve at least reached the point where we must start to confront it even if that confrontation is long overdue.

The Post is a movie that is IMPORTANT, but it never feels self-satisfied or smug thanks to the talent of everyone involved. We all know why the people making this movie are doing it, and that the press for it will certainly revolve around current events. But what makes The Post more than topical is that Spielberg never loses sight of telling the best story. Yes, The Post speaks to the moment, but it’s through Spielberg’s voice that it speaks clearly and forcefully.

A Star Wars Wine Companion

 

(Thanks to the folks at Food and Wine for putting this fun post together)

If your favorite Star Wars characters were wines, here's what they would be. 

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Choosing the right bottle in the vast world of wine can often seem like navigating the galaxy. Star Wars: The Force Awakens continues to sell out theatres around the globe —so obviously there are many out there who share my fondness for the epic film series. The major players from the original triology all had strong, distinct personalities, much like wines have unique styles, and the character that you identify with most might lend some insight into what you like to drink. With Episode VII introducing the voices of the new generation, here are 13 central characters from both the Light and Dark Sides—and their wine world equivalents.

Princess Leia Organa: Blanc de Noirs Champagne
Why? Bold, fearless and brimming with energy and determination, Leia is instrumental in the Galactic Civil War. Although there’s darkness in her lineage—in the form of Darth Vader—she is pure Light, like this white Champagne made from black grapes (100 percent pinot noir, to be exact).

Luke Skywalker: Barolo
Why? Skywalker is awkward and unsettled in his youth, his true identity hidden away until later in life, when he realizes his true potential as a Jedi Master. Barolo similarly requires time for its tannins to soften and its beguiling secondary aromas to come to the fore. When they do, the wine drinks like the masterpiece it was destined to be.

R2-D2: New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc
Why? This feisty little droid is always on a mission, and he always succeeds—just as Sauvignon Blanc successfully put New Zealand on the map as a world-class wine-producing country. Plus, he’s zippy, spritely and always reliable.

C-3PO: Second Wine of a top-growth Bordeaux
Why? This 3PO unit is programmed for etiquette and protocol and is fluent in over 6 million forms of communication, so you’ll want him as your Number 2. Buttoned-up and British by accent, he’s right at home at any fancy affair but can also hold his own if the mood turns a little more raucous.

Darth Vader: Cahors
Why? There could be no darker side of the wine-producing world than that known as the "black wine" of Cahors in Southwest France. There, the Malbec grape finds its most deeply colored and mineral manifestation, its firm structure of tannin and acidity giving it longevity, much like the life-sustaining black armor of the Sith Lord Vader.

Obi-Wan Kenobi: Burgundy
Why? A longtime Jedi Master, Obi-Wan is to the Force as Burgundy is to terroir: the epitome of its expression. The wines, like the man, exude the effortless elegance, grace, and complexity to which all others aspire.

Han Solo: Etna Rosso
Why? “I’ve got a bad feeling about this…” is a frequent quip from the lawless smuggler turned Alliance fighter Han Solo. You’d have a bad feeling, too, if you were a vine planted on the volcanic slope of Sicily’s Mount Etna, which is prone to erupting from time to time. Wines produced there are smoky, seductive and never lacking character.

Chewbacca: Chilean Carménère
Why? This Wookie warrior speaks in a tongue not many understand, like this grape, which was originally mistaken for Merlot in Chile and produces wines of an earthy, animale profile. 

Yoda: Georgian Wine
Why? Yoda is a beacon of ancient wisdom and the organic lifestyle. If he were to make wine, he would almost certainly ferment his fruit in old-school earthenware vessels buried into the ground, like the qvevri that Georgian winemakers still use today.

Rey: Oregon Pinot Noir
Why? The Force is strong with Rey. Although she’s next-generation Jedi, she has the makings of Obi-Wan-level mastery, just as Willamette Pinot shows obvious ties to the grape’s Burgundian pedigree.

BB-8: Pét-Nat
Why? This latest addition to the lineup of droids stole the show with his crowd-pleasing and naturally bubbly demeanor. He also wins for best sound effects, like this fun, fuss-free French sparkler.

Finn: Cru Beaujolais
Why? Finn refuses to conform and remain among the ranks of Stormtroopers of the First Order, opting to express his individuality, much like the crus express their distinct terroirs, setting them apart from commercial Bojo.

Kylo Ren: Austrian Zwiegelt
Why? Although officially turned to the Dark Side, Kylo Ren sometimes falters toward the Light, pulled in two directions like this red grape variety, which is a crossing of Blaufränkish and Sankt Laurent. Both exhibit the freshness of youth mixed with the brooding spiciness that comes from sinister intentions.

Star Wars - The Force Awakens

With all of the buzz about the new Star Wars movie it was pretty hard to resist going to see it. Not that I would have missed it but there was a certain conflicted feeling given how terrible some of the recent movies in the franchise have been. We finally managed to catch it on Sunday at a ginormous theatre where it was playing on four screens with 5 or 6 showings each day per screen. . . pretty amazing for a movie which has been out for almost three weeks.

I'm glad that we went - the movie was amazing, even for those people who were not fans of the original. In fact, the Toronto Star review declared it to be the best movie of 2015.

I had studiously avoided all spoilers (but one) and will do so here as well.

The world has changed since the first of the Star Wars movies was released in 1977. Back then, the Soviet Union still existed, the threat of nuclear war loomed over every “cold” confrontation between the two superpowered blocs, the US had just emerged from a bruising and dispiriting war in Vietnam, the internet didn’t exist, and neither did wifi — which maybe explains why Princess Leia took the Millennium Falcon to the rebel base, even though she knew it was being tracked by the Empire. Nobody had seen anything quite like George Lucas’s Star Wars before, with its cutting-edge special effects and charming use of the “hero’s journey” narrative so succinctly identified by Joseph Campbell as essential to modern mythmaking.

However, when you look at the original movie now it seems dated and almost cartoonist.

The latest installment, helmed by JJ Abrams, is anything but.

Star Wars: The Force Awakens continually reprises plots and themes from the first three movies. It tells a well-crafted story; the new characters are invigorating; the old characters are reintroduced tidily.

Luke Skywalker has vanished and the First Order (a grup that takes on the trappings of a modern terrorist organization, unthinkable in 1977) threatening to conquer the cosmos, a new team of saviours emerges, led by dashing scavenger Rey (Daisy Ridley) and the fellow who fancies her, former Dark Side trooper Finn (John Boyega), and Resistance pilot Poe (Oscar Isaac). They match wits and lightsabers with new diabolical force Kylo Ren (Adam Driver) — who would do Darth Vader proud — and his minions. It unfolded with a solid mix of action, emotion, and plenty of laughter.

A happy departure with this movie is the number of strong female roles and the more diverse cast. In fact, a white, male rights group (really . . . such an advocacy group is needed? SIGH) urged a boycott of the movie because of the dearth of strong white, male characters. I guess when you reach that tipping point the world may be actually changing for the better.

Is The Force Awakens worth the hype? Yes. Did it match my geeky fanboy expectations? Yes. Is it worth seeing again. Absolutely. JJ Abrams succeeds greatly in The Force Awakens, acting as a grandiose “welcome back” blockbuster to the beloved franchise that will surely please fans and newcomers alike. While there is a slight sense of déjà vu and certain aspects aren’t as flesh out as they could be, the movie is entertainingly fun, exciting and unequivocally filled with nostalgia. To me, it was a happy thing to return to the cinematic universe of Star Wars and to catch up with some old and new faces. I highly recommend everyone to see this movie in theaters. Now I can’t hardly wait to see where Star Wars: Episode VIII (due out 2017) will take these characters (and the franchise) to next. Bottom line, The Force Awakens is pure movie escapism at its best. Plain and simple. Just in a galaxy far, far away.

 

A Message to my Friends Who Have Already Seen the New Star Wars Movie

Suffragette

Last week our new Prime Minister took office. When he introduced his cabinet half of the Ministers were women. When asked why that was important to him he responded with a quip that took off on social media: 'because it is 2015'. It was a good counterpoint to the movie we saw last night - Suffragette.

Suffragette takes place in 1912 and 1913, when the 10-year-old Women’s Social and Political Union, founded by Emmeline Pankhurst (played by Meryl Streep in a cameo although she receives top billing), had intensified its tactics to include hunger strikes and arson attacks. By the time  Suffragette opens, Pankhurst has gone into hiding and the movement is being carefully tracked by the authorities.

The film brings the dramatically stratified world of  Suffragette to life. From the outset, the film is suffused with bustling atmosphere and a heavy sense of dread. (The director is less adroit with action sequences, such as an unconvincing police riot that ensues after Pankhurst speaks).

In fact,  Suffragette would suffer from being fatally dreary and dutiful were it not for the central performance by Carey Mulligan, who plays a reticent laundry worker whose consciousness is raised by a feisty colleague, played by Anne-Marie Duff.

As the soft-spoken Maud Watts, Mulligan is, quite simply, a revelation. Her preternaturally expressive face conveys volumes in just one baleful look. Mulligan delivers a performance that is simultaneously meek and musical. Whether she is confronting an uncomprehending husband (Ben Whishaw), an abusive boss (Geoff Bell) or a manipulative police inspector (Brendan Gleeson), her journey is never less than fleet and sure-footed — whatever the repercussions.

The film might easily be subtitled, The Radicalization of Maud. Caught up in a window-smashing street riot orchestrated by suffragettes, she initially has little interest in the movement, but soon starts to see it as a path that could lead to equality of pay, and safety from sexual harassment in the workplace.

Called at the last minute to testify before Parliament, the sad-eyed, exhausted Maud turns a showstopping scene into a quiet, deeply touching moment when she suggests, with heartbreaking simplicity, that there might be “another way of living this life.”

Even when  Suffragette flirts with melodrama, as long as Mulligan is on-screen — and especially when she is joined by Duff —  Suffragette is comes alive.

The plot builds to a grievous climax, based on the real-life story of activist Emily Wilding Davison, who threw herself in front of a horse owned by King George V at a race in 1913.

The film’s greatest achievement is that it gives a full-blooded picture of a struggle that is still going forth in some corners of the world today.

At the end of the movie a long list of countries and when they granted women the right to vote ran along the screen. Canada was missing from the list. For those who want to know - 1919 for Federal elections.

The audience for the film was predominantly women. At the end of the film they burst into applause . . . something one doesn't experience at the movies very often any longer.

Mr. Holmes

One of the great challenges of summer movie going  is the dearth of 'intelligent' films. You can go and see any number of blockbuster films with super heroes, explosions, aliens, or cute cartoon characters but try to find a well acted, well written, small budget film and you might as well stay home. Imagine my joy when I saw a few articles about the new Ian McKellen film - Mr. Holmes a few weeks back. Then there were crickets. This was not a film people were talking about amongst the openings of Mission Impossible, Trainwreck, and Pixels. Heck, the film wasn't even in wide release!

We finally found a nearby theatre showing it and went to a showing yesterday. All I can say is it is a shame that more folks aren't talking about this film!

Mr. Holmes is a new twist on the world's most famous detective. Set in 1947, an aging Sherlock Holmes returns from a journey to Japan, where, in search of a rare plant with powerful restorative qualities, he has witnessed the devastation of nuclear warfare. Now, in his remote seaside farmhouse, Holmes faces the end of his days tending to his bees, with only the company of his housekeeper and her young son, Roger. Grappling with the diminishing powers of his mind, Holmes comes to rely upon the boy as he revisits the circumstances of the case that forced him into retirement, and searches for answers to the mysteries of life and love.

We sat back and watched as Sherlock Holmes tackles the forgotten case. Suffering from Alzheimer's, Holmes seeks to remember the case that ended his career as the world's premier sleuth. Ian McKellen puts on an Oscar-worthy performance as Holmes, living alone in a seaside home with only his housekeeper and her son; tending to his bees. There are no thrills here involving big dogs or evil criminal masterminds like Professor Moriarty; but a tense, suspenseful and moving story, well shot and well directed. I liked it a lot.

Watson and Mrs Hudson are blurs in the background; brother Mycroft (John Sessions), too, gets a bit part. Holmes’s main companions are his Dover housekeeper, Mrs Munro (Laura Linney), and her son Roger, played in a very solid, unaffected turn by the young British actor Milo Parker.

There’s nothing about the film that Conan Doyle fans, McKellen fans, Linney fans, and anyone partial to a well played score won’t relish. TV Sherlock fans – not necessarily the same crowd – may miss its jumped-up speed and ingenuity. This is Holmes intentionally slowed down to a hobbling, reflective, end-of-life pace. It’s a film to rummage around in, picking up old clues, considering their meaning, and turning them in your palm.

McKellen not only is ideally cast but he is pure perfection in the role, as you might expect. I wouldn’t be surprised if there is another Oscar nomination in his future for his work. This is not the Sherlock Holmes with the deerstalker hat and pipe that you have come to expect. The portrayal is of a more quiet, introspective man in the sunset of his years, but it is no less engaging and McKellen just nails it. So does the wonderful Laura Linney in a role that could have been a stereotyped housekeeper but instead is a fully dimensional woman trying to keep her own life together bringing up a child on her own after losing her husband in the war. Her scenes opposite McKellen are pure gems. It’s a breath of fresh air to watch two such accomplished pros working with this level of material. 

This, like Gods And Monsters the last film McKellen worked on with director Bill Condon, is a small, independently made film that is the perfect summer antidote to the weekly blockbusters to which we are subjected. Sometimes smaller is much better. This is one that shoots straight for the heart and mind.