I was looking forward to visiting the Schindler Factory museum after yesterday's trip to Auschwitz for a reminder of the good some humans rise to do in dark times. For that I was to be a bit disappointed. The Oskar Schindler enameled goods factory’, the original name of which is ‘Fabryka Schindlera’ has been turned into a world class museum that depicts the wartime experiences in Krakow. While the story of Schindler and the 1000 Jews he saved was a feature of the museum the vast majority of it dealt with life in Krakow during the Nazi years and later the Soviet occupation.


The Schindler Factory also does a good job at telling the story of Oskar Schindler himself, who started out as a miserly and opportunistic German business man. Schindler joined the Nazi party and went to Poland with the goal of profiting from the German invasion, and almost immediately gained control over an enamelware factory, complete with around 1,100 Jewish laborers to staff the thing. He seemed to be one of those slimy, profiteering bastards that thrives in wartime: as his factory made him more money, he started making friends with the top Nazi officials in Krakow, and then exploited those relationships to continue making as much money as he could. He was a wheeler and dealer of sorts.
At some point, the war changed the guy. Schindler witnessed a raid on the Krakow ghetto, during which everyone was either killed or rounded up and taken to concentration camps. From that point on, he began to use his extensive network of relationships with high ranking officials, special status of his factory, and seemingly endless stores of charm to protect those Jews who worked in his factory. He went bankrupt paying bribes, and relied more-or-less for the rest of his life on the financial help of Jewish organizations.
There was much about the tour that was disconcerting - in fact, the museum is designed to make your senses feel off with uneven floors, sounds, lights etc. It wasn't the antidote I had been hoping fro after yesterday's tour of Auschwitz, but then again, it is the history of the area and can not be ignored.

After we were finished at the museum we decided to head to the Kazimierz district for lunch. We were to meet our guide for the Craft Beer Tour outside of the Old Synagogue at 1:00. We ended up at a restaurant called Max 14. I ordered a Polish pork chop which came with cabbage and potatoes. It was all good but the cabbage was outstanding - I can't believe I am saying this about cabbage but it was one of the best things I have eaten so far on this trip. Seriously. Cabbage.

Paul had Bigos which he declared to be much better than the version we had tried the other day.

After lunch we walked over to the synagogue where we met Kamila from Delicious Poland. For the next three hours or so we wandered the streets of Kazimierz learning more about the Polish Craft Beer scene. We visited three spots and tried 10 different beers. It was a wonderful way to spend the afternoon. The beer, company, and the snacks were all amazing!


By the time the tour had ended we were both a little tipsy. It was a slow walk back to the apartment but we made it unscathed!
A nap was definitely in order.
Another great day in Krakow!